SMG Specs

[davep32618]

All,

I have a B&G bolt in a model B. I started off with a few hitches, but thanks to RoverDave it has been an A-1 unit. I bought it as an unfired (I would have preferred it as broken in, but I took care of that :devil ).

My question is, when you guys bring up sending something to Vector and have them bring it up to SMG specs. What specifically are we talking about? Does this make sense for a Bolt gun, since SA parts are becoming harder and harder to come by.

Thanks in advance,

Dave

[Open Bolts]

1. Removal of restriction ring
2. Opening up of sear pad holes in receiver.
3. (goes with #2) replacement of semi-auto sear with full-auto in FCG.
4. Enlargement of trunion.
5. SMG lower body with 8mm pin and pin hole.

Use the library link, top left hand corner; it is your friend. ;)

The sear replacement is a great idea because of the way it mates with a full auto bolt. Were the B&G bolts slotted full autos or converted semis?

With the full conversion above you can now use surplus barrels and lowers. In the case of the lower, it's really just the sear, FCG housing, and pin specifically.

EDIT: The other way to look at it: With a full conversion the only part you cannot use from a set of spares is the bolt itself, which is obvious. The only caveat here is that spare spring backs need to have a notch cut in them to pass over the blocking bar.

[davep32618]

Thanks. Dave:)

[davep32618]

Slotted bolt.

[Open Bolts]

It has to be slotted but was it an SMG bolt slotted, or an semi bolt welded up?

The difference is the notch that the sear catches will be different between bolts and will determine which sear to use. B&G bolts have good reputations so it is probably a slotted SMG bolt (so use an SMG sear) but the distinction is important.

[davep32618]

Sorry, I didn't understand the question. It is a slotted SMG bolt. Thanks.

[davep32618]

Next question, now how do I tell what has been down to my Uzi? Obviously, I am not all that familiar with it yet, still learning. I could snap some pics if that helps.

Thanks,

Dave

[Open Bolts]

CLICK THE LIBRARY LINK. Here's a start but I suggest reading all the links in the top left column.

http://files.uzitalk.com/reference/pages/FAconversions.htm

Look at your gun, look at pics.

[davep32618]

Now that was really helpful. I had looked at my gun and looked at the pics several times, but never together. It all makes sense now. Currently, my Model B does not have any SMG mods, however, it is currently running 100%, so we all know about that rule. In the future, I may consider it, especially if something breaks and it is hard to find.

Does anyone know how much Vector charges to bring one up to SMG specs, and what is the paperwork process?

Thanks,

Dave

[davep32618]

All,

Loads of fun, went to the range on Friday, the extractor broke, no big deal, except I didn't have a spare. However, what did scare me was I had an AD, first in my life. Not a big deal as the weapon was pointed where it shoudl be, down range. Anyway, my gun is not up to SMG specs, except that the sear holes are large enough to accomodate the FA lower and it has a ratcheting top cover. It had stovepiped and when I drop the mag, the bolt lurched forward causing the AD. Is there a fix for this?

Thanks,

Dave

[RoverDave]

It had stovepiped and when I drop the mag, the bolt lurched forward causing the AD. Is there a fix for this?

The fix for that is procedural, not hardware related. When a misfire occurs, the first thing you need to do is put the bolt in a controlled position. For an open bolt SMG, that would mean pulling the bolt all the way back until the sear catches it. Only then should you remove the mag and address the jam.

[davep32618]

Thanks RD. The problem I had did not allow me to lock the bolt back. As the bolt would not pull all the way back when this happened. It was somehow getting caught on the mag and stovepiped round that did not eject. I actually knew it was probably going to AD as I did not have a 3rd hand to lock the bolt back while removing the mag.

[RoverDave]

Yeah, it can be tricky some times depending on how things are jamed up. Controlling the bolt is still the first task. If you can't lock it back, sometimes you can hold it in place via the cocking knob while using the other hand to remove the mag. But sometimes you just need a third hand. In those cases I would try to insert something between the bolt and chamber to prevent the bolt from slamming closed (which becomes your "third hand"), and then pull the mag.

[9mmsubgun-m11]

davep32618-I too have a B&G bolt gun-mines a model A.I would suggest that you obtain a smg sear.All you would need to do is slightly enlarge the holes in the receiver with a small file.If you go with the smg sear and the factory top cover you will need to do a little file work on the rear area of the slot in the top cover-otherwise you can't pull the bolt back enough to engage the smg sear.It would be wiser to get a smg top cover-the ratchet mechanism is a great safety factor should you accidentally let go of the cocking knob.These two things are really the only mods I have done to mine-with the exception of having to tinker with the angle of the ejector.Mine runs 100% with any ammo I choose to feed it.The ONLY exception is my gun is not 100% reliable with 32rnd mags.100% reliability with 25rnd mags and the Vector 68rnd drum.

[davep32618]

RD and 9mm, excellent suggestions from both! Thanks, I am actually just going to have mine brought up to SMG specs and be done with it. However, it is a IMI host gun, so I may buy a Norinco for the FA, and keep the IMI original.

Thanks again,

Dave