Reloading press suggestions?

[suka5168]

Well im a Red Neck Gun Nut so they say..
You collect and save all your brass, have a case tumbler and don't reload. YOUR A RED NECK.

So i gatta reload someday. Been collecting my brass since I started shooting many many years ago., still LESS than a shoe box full.
I really dont shoot enough to justify reloading but buying ammo at inflated prices are also a headache. Primarily shoot 9mm , 40SW, 223, 308, maybe even 41AE
Looking into getting a press ; the RCBS looks cool but cost alot.
Leaning towards the LEE Anniversary or Turrent Kits. The dies are realitivly cheaper, too. The progressive preeses are to expensive for me.
What are your thought? How should i start.

[carcass]

You say that you don't shoot enough to justify reloading; trust me that once you start, you will find shooting affordable enough to shoot as much as you want. I can reload .45ACP for about $70 per thousand; 9mm for about $60 per thousand.

I have a Dillon 650, and while you say the progressive presses are too expensive, note that the 650 press will pay for itself in ammo savings after about 1300 rounds.

A good friend of mine who shoots about as much if not more than I do uses an RCBS turret press and seems to think it's just fine. I like to spend as little time reloading as possible, so the Dillon works great for me, but if you don't mind spending a little extra time, the RCBS would probably be the way to go. From what I hear the strip-fed primer magazine is quite handy.

[suka5168]

Now will i need to get all those case trimmers , calipers and other neat toys ? I have some ammo that i still havent shoot in 5 - 8 years.
Never reloaded before so sounds complicated starting. But heard its easy after you get the hang of it. Really need to know how to start. powder selection and termologies.

[carcass]

If you're reloading pistol cases like 9mm and .45, don't worry about trimming the cases. Don't worry about primer pocket reamers unless your ammo has crimped primers.

Unless you're into extremely high-accuracy shooting, you don't even need to trim .308 and .223 cases every time. Just check a representative sample of each batch to make sure they're within the max case length and go from there.

For pistol (9mm, .45, .40) the best powder you can start with is probably Hodgdon Titegroup. It's one of the most versatile powders available, and it's not too expensive. Many high-volume pistol shooters use Titegroup or Hodgdon Clays in their .45s. Clays is really fast-burning so it's not as good for 9mm or .40.

For .223 and .308, Hodgdon H335 or BL(C)-2 are very good powders. IMR 4895 rocks in both cases but is harder to meter precisely.

Safety is important; wear eye protection and make sure you always get 1 full powder charge in the case.

[tommygun2000]

Originally posted by carcass
If you're reloading pistol cases like 9mm and .45, don't worry about trimming the cases. Don't worry about primer pocket reamers unless your ammo has crimped primers.

Unless you're into extremely high-accuracy shooting, you don't even need to trim .308 and .223 cases every time. Just check a representative sample of each batch to make sure they're within the max case length and go from there.

For pistol (9mm, .45, .40) the best powder you can start with is probably Hodgdon Titegroup. It's one of the most versatile powders available, and it's not too expensive. Many high-volume pistol shooters use Titegroup or Hodgdon Clays in their .45s. Clays is really fast-burning so it's not as good for 9mm or .40.

For .223 and .308, Hodgdon H335 or BL(C)-2 are very good powders. IMR 4895 rocks in both cases but is harder to meter precisely.

Safety is important; wear eye protection and make sure you always get 1 full powder charge in the case.
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I'd check each and every rifle case before reloading it and trim them to length. Not doing so is asking for trouble, particularly if they are being shot out of a semi auto gun. Eventually they won't even fit into the magazine unless the bullet is seated deeper into the casing.
.308 cases stretch many thoundths past the trim to length and should be brought back into spec before reloading.

Pulled powders available from www.gibrass.com work well. I use HPC-1 and HPC-18 in both 9mm and .45acp. Call and ask Jeff about these two powders.
All my reloading is done with FMJ so my costs are a bit higher but still cheaper (in .45acp) than factory stuff, although Wolf is not far off.

Also, a progressive press is the only way to go. A Dillon 550B would be the minimum press I would buy or recommend to any new reloader.

Read the manuals, read them again, then read them again.

Find a reloader in your area and ask to observe for a couple of sessions and it should give you an idea about how things work.

As stated above.....LOOK at each and every powder charge before setting a bullet on the casing. A squib in an MG will/may cost you a barrel at least and injury or death at worst.

Be careful....its not stuff to be taken lightly.

[carcass]

Originally posted by tommygun2000
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I'd check each and every rifle case before reloading it and trim them to length. Not doing so is asking for trouble, particularly if they are being shot out of a semi auto gun. Eventually they won't even fit into the magazine unless the bullet is seated deeper into the casing.
.308 cases stretch many thoundths past the trim to length and should be brought back into spec before reloading.



I've had good luck with Lake City '90s production brass in .308. I got to the point where I realized that the cases were stretching no more than about .002" and I started doing only random sample length checks. I have a Dillon 1200 case trimmer and I trim all new/once-fired brass that I buy. However, once you have a good idea how much you're stretching when you fire, you can stop having to check every single time and go to a random sample, as long as you're not using mixed headstamps.

[tommygun2000]

Originally posted by carcass
I've had good luck with Lake City '90s production brass in .308. I got to the point where I realized that the cases were stretching no more than about .002" and I started doing only random sample length checks. I have a Dillon 1200 case trimmer and I trim all new/once-fired brass that I buy. However, once you have a good idea how much you're stretching when you fire, you can stop having to check every single time and go to a random sample, as long as you're not using mixed headstamps.

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Some of the stuff I have used was a bit softer than the Lake City so it needed a bit more attention. Also can depend on chambers ect. but for a new reloader, I advise to check'em all until they get the hang of things.

What were you shooting the .308 out of? Mine were out of an M1A and a Savage bolt gun. The brass was Federal, Cavim, Radway Green, some Lake City. I collect a lot of once fired Federal match stuff from police swat teams that shoot at the same range.

The place is a reloaders paradise. Just bought 10,000 more once fired .45acp for a penny a piece from a retired guy who picks up brass at a couple of ranges. I won't even pick up my brass at those prices. This stuff is still shiney and in great condition.
The ground is littered with 9mm, 40sw, sometimes .45acp depending on who's been there, lots and lots of .223, 308(lots of berdan stuff FNM headstamp) but also some federal, lots of 3006 and 30-30 too. Also usually several belted magnum types.

Going to buy Magtech bullets from Cabelas soon.....they are cheaper than MontanaGold bullets which I have been using and no shipping involved...just a roadtrip, probably with Jimmy2Times.

Going to need a trailer for the ammo and bullets :D


Got a load worked for a Savage 110 that will touch holes or same hole at 100yds with IMR-4064 and match 168gr BTHPs....I just hate the stock on it though...most uncomfortable grip I've ever held. Someday a Choate will be in the mail.

[suka5168]

I think reloading is really alot o fun. Work overseas and get home about once a year. But the way i shoot it is just so damn slow. I bought 5 boxes/20rd of 308 at Spt Arty 5 yrs ago $7.99 and I still have 2 boxes left. Of course I had saved all my brass. The 308 are out of the Galil and a clone G-3. 223rem is out of my AR/ Mini14.
I dont have any friends that shoot back home and dont go to te range long enough to know anyone, so obseving someone is out of the question. So my only source of info is my UZI TALK buddies here.
Im not going to do any fancy loads just real super basic reloades to recycle my brass. Plus living in Hawaii nobody is willing to ship one case of bulk case ammo, a container load maybe.

[MuzzleFlash]

I have a Hornady LNL-AP progressive that I bought at Cabelas on sale for $299 and it included one set of dies.

It is a cheap way to get into progressive press reloading for subgun ammo. Although I could use it for rifle reloading, I prefer to buy my .308 surplus at the local gun show and go with wally world on .223 MG ammo.

If I'm working on an accuracy rifle load, I will always use my RCBS Rock Chucker single stage with a Hornady twist-n-lok insert. Production is slower, but I believe I get a better result taking my time.

The Hornady AP press does have a few weak points. If money was no object for you, I'd point you at the Dillon 650. The Blue Press has a loyal following for a reason.

Lastly, for any progressive press, you should definitely get a lock-out die (don't confuse this with a indicator die). RCBS makes one. It has saved my ass more than once from undercharged squibs and a rare overcharge. The most common cause of squibs is a malfunction in the powder dispenser caused by gunk buildup between surfaces.

[suka5168]

Thanks guy,
So what will i need to get besides the Press,.....?
I usally have 2 weeks vacation when I get home and want to reload off the bat. What will i need to start reloading the night i get back home, simple no brainer .Will be reloading mainly only brass that i had used before.

[tommygun2000]

Originally posted by suka5168
Thanks guy,
So what will i need to get besides the Press,.....?
I usally have 2 weeks vacation when I get home and want to reload off the bat. What will i need to start reloading the night i get back home, simple no brainer .Will be reloading mainly only brass that i had used before.
---------------------------
You'll need, SAFETY GLASSES, bullets, primers, powder, a set of calipers, a case guage(recommeded, not esential), a kinetic bulet puller, a scale for weighing powder to check charges and to sort bullets if that is critical to your reloading, a paint brush to brush away spilled powder, a good bench to mount the press to in a room with good lighting. A reloaders manual that covers the powders and bullets being used and most of all some patience. Don't ever be in a hurry when you are reloading. It may cause you to make mistakes that you might not otherwise make and can have dire consequences.

A fire extinguisher at the door isn't a bad idea either.

Reload methodically. This eliminates mistakes. Check your powder charge weight every so often to insure that the powder dispenser is working properly.

And last but not least....and I cannot stress this point enough

CHECK EVERY SINGLE CASE FOR POWDER BEFORE PUTTING A BULLET ON TOP TO BE SEATED!!!!!!

If there is ever any doubt.....even the slightest doubt, pull the bullet, dump the powder and reload the brass again.

[FlaSport]

I would recommend the Lee Pro 1000 progressive press for your pistol calibers. Its about $120 brand new from cabela's including a set of dies. Used about $75 from e-bay. Then you'll need powder, primers and bullets, a decent scale (Cheap is OK). Once set up properly, you should be able to do 400-500 rounds per hour. Accessories and extra dies are a lot more affordable than dillon. Stay away fromthe single stage presses. They may be cheaper, but they are slow....maybe 100 rounds per hour if you know what you are doing. The savings on extra rounds will easily pay for the slightly higher costs. The lee pro 1000 will not do rifle rounds generally (Might do .223...have to check).

As others have stated, buy a good manual and follow the loads exactly and you will have no problem.

Dillons are great presses, but much more expensive. The lees will do the same thing as a dillon at 1/4 the cost. I own both brands and use both. Dillons are a pain to adjust. Lee is much easier. I use the Dillons to crank out volumes of loads that I know work. I seldom change the charges, etc. The dillons are easy enough to set up if I want to experiment with a new load, powder, etc.

Each has their own advantages and disadvantages. Too much to get into for your simple question of recommended presses.
Dillon does have great customer service and will replace parts if they break. Lee has been known for "relatively poor" customer service, but I own 6 Lee Pro 1000 machines and have never broken a part and needed to call Lee for a replacement in the last 15 years. Dillon I have called three times this year alone.


PM me if you have any specific questions.

[suka5168]

Roger That.
I may have to reload if i get that FN P90. And mainly 308, they are expensive to shoot
Im from Hawaii as many ammo places cant be shiped via reg UPS or air to me.
Is there a book from a book store say Amazon . that i can read up on for simple basics.

[Dan0341]

Here are a couple of discussion boards that provide excellent info. I've learned quite a bit from them.

http://www.reloadbench.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/Ultimate.cgi

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/

Dan

[Brkdnc]

A good book to start with is " the ABC's of reloading amazon has it here (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0873498518/ref=lpr_g_1/102-7023069-6501753?v=glance&s=books&n=507846), and you will need a good reloading manual I use the
SPEER Manual (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000C50ZZ/qid=1104454002/sr=8-1/ref=pd_csp_1/102-7023069-6501753?v=glance&s=sporting-goods&n=507846).
Everybody as posted great advice on the presses, but I did start with the lee Anniversary kit, it has almost everything you need to start reloading and over time you can upgrade the scale, press and powder measure,
So if you really are not going to be doing a lot of handloading I think it would work for you to start out with. But any large amount a progressive press does wonders and saves a lot of time.

[the brass man]

Do yourself a favor and stay away from lee, the powder measure sucks. if you just want to start out, get a dillon 550b, or at Gleast a square deal B. better waranty than lee, and one HELL OF A LOT BETTER powder dump than the POS that lee makes. my 1st progressive was a lee pro 1000, wasted more brass than i loaded. I started loading on a rcbs rockchucker (deer loads) 20+ years ago, slow, but good ammo. I now have a dillon 650, and want a 1050. the 650 has NEVER loaded a squib, or double load. I do have the powder level check station on my 650 so i dont have to look at every round, but i still do. Go with anything BLUE(DILLON) and you will be fine. for a SDB you are looking at less than 300, for a completely outfitted 650, look for about 1000 bucks, but you can crank out 7-800 rounds per hour with the 650. If you are going for rifle ammo, get a 550b, for pistol, go with either the 650, or the square deal B.

THINK ABOUT IT!!

chris

ps, I have had squibs with the lee powder measure on the pro 1000

[Ed]

Make this short....
If you plan on just doing pistol ammo get a Dillon squre deal.
If you plan on adding rifle calibers later get a Dillon 550. You will suprise yourself how much MORE you will shoot with LOTS of ammo around. You can use what ever standard dies on the 550 so I would encourage you to go with the 550, and you WILL want to add rifle calibers later. Best of luck and happy new year.

[soflasmg]

Do yourself a favor and get the Dillon.

My first press was a Lee progressive and it just sucked.

A good friend of mine still gives me grief and an I told you so.

Learn from my mistake!!

[suka5168]

The Dillons really does has a following group of people. thanks

[smoke]

I will put it this way.. I have been loading for over 28 years..
Started way back with the lee dies and a rubber mallet..
it worked but was slow and scary.. moved up to a rock chucker
love it for precision loads but still slow..

Tryed a lee Challanger, did not like the flimsy construction

own a RCBS progressive... about 10years old. Can't remember the model # but it sucks big time.. it turned me away from progressive presses for a long time..

finally bought a dillon 650XL last year (with all the bells and whistles) ... Fought with ( learned ) the thing for about 2 days then it all came together .. loads so fast and smooth... don't know how I could go back to the chucker except for my 1000 + yard loads..

9mm, 223 and 308's mostly on the dillon ...
on calibers where I only load 100 or so still use the rock chucker

anyway Point to all this is.. if you want quality equipment and Loads , speed in loading and can afford it BUY the Dillon


Thanks
smoke

[Brian Ski]

Smoke... It looks like the dillon is the way to go... But for 5 bills plus... To rich for me at least at the moment...

I have a Lee progressive... It is a cheaper quality machine... The bullet feeding arms are its weakest link.... It does the job but it was given to me some time ago, so I didn't buy it... I learned on my Lee turret press a long time ago and got a bunch of dies set up for it...

[smoke]

Brian
I totally understand... Took me a while to justify the purchase but now that I have there's no looking back.... Wish I had done it years ago...
hey if you are on a budget and not loading a thousand rds at a sitting More like 50 to 100 at a time .. I suggest the RCBS Rock Chucker.. Full reloading kit for less than $300.00..
in 20 Plus years know its loaded at least 10,000 rds and never one ounce of problem....

Thanks
smoke

[Patriot]

One word: Dillon. I have an XL650. Works FLAWLESSLY. Accurate ammo too. As accurate as I make on my single stage presses.

Too bad he doesn't make one for 50 BMG

Patriot

[Brian Ski]

My Lee Turret has done me well... Not close to the fastest but caliber changes are quick... Trying to think.... I have had to load around 7-10k rounds thru it... I have had it for a while...

I don't reload much.. My time is usually for other things... It seems easier just to buy a case or 2 when needed... But when I fire up the loader it is for something special.... Subsonic, AP, etc...

BTW A powder level sensor is mandatory for full auto... One squib load and it could pay for your new Dillon!!!!