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No, there is not.

You can hold it lightly in a padded vise, but I would use a 3/4” wrench on the barrel and another on the muzzle device to remove it. If you are removing a muzzle device from a Mk1 steel receiver, I would put the bolt assembly in the upper to help prevent it from getting crushed/deformed.

Check to see if your extractor is missing or worn.

Or a squib round just ahead of the chamber blocking the feeding round from seating completely.

Are you using the threaded stock latch? There shouldn’t be any play in the stock when installed. Stock Latch

If you are looking for a loader, but not OEM, we make a polymer one for the M3 Greasegun magazine. Link to Loader

It’s on the same page as the grips. From the menu, click on your type of “MAC”, then click on grips. IRM Latch Grip PLug

I would need to have one for reference to design it. Unfortunately, our insurance company won’t cover any lower receivers that might get lost in shipment back to a customer, so it is not an option for us to have a customer send one in to design the grip plug.

We sell a grip plug now with a button on the bottom that makes it real easy to latch the IRM hook.

This is the first time I have heard of one of our triggers wearing out. It only pulls the sear down, no moving parts. If you repaired it by welding more aluminum to the “hook”, it would have annealed the aluminum and made it soft. Our second generation Full Auto Only Triggers have a wider...

The pocket is to lighten the bolt to prevent runaways with weak ammo.

Harley-mac: Are you using polymer or metal magazines? Make sure you are not loading 31 rounds into the magazine. A lot of magazines will accept 31 rounds, but this does not allow the top round to compress into the magazine to allow the mag' to lock in with the bolt closed. For people who are...

Yes, they are M4 cut. Make sure you adjust the gas block for your ammo. Short stroking will cause jams.

Double feeds are from incorrect loading of the magazine. You are getting “rim over” jams. Read the manual, it’s covered in there. Use our magazine loader to load the mag’s. Put the original extractor, spring and plunger back in. The Volquartsen Exact Edge has less space between the bolt face...

I’ve tried a bunch of stuff y’all don’t know anything about! Some becomes new product, some gets archived, some gets thrown in the trash, some just becomes a personal toy for me. Some things I build because I personally want them, such as the Alien’s MAX-41A Pulse Rifle or the Robocop styled...

Yes, if you choose to pursue this project, it would be better to re-profile the area on the CFW bolt that the sear would be catching on. Just copy the profile on the MAX-31 bolt. You could carefully do it with a Dremel and a diamond coated bit. After firing, you will need to keep an eye on...

I do not recommend doing this. The MAX-31 bolt has the sear notch on the breach face instead of the front of the bolt like an OEM bolt. With the CFW BOLT the sear will be holding the bolt back on a narrow angled part of the bolt that is not at the correct angle and is not robust enough. This...

The MAX-31 Competition #628 is for the original MAX-31 (now referred to as Mk1) that is made from stamped steel and welded, versus the Mk2 which is machined from billet aluminum. This grip will not fit the MAX-10/31.

Remove the upper and check to see if the ejector rod slipped out and is under the bolt. This causes the back of the bolt to hit the ejector rod that is angled downward beneath the bolt.

We had one in the shop a while back. A couple of things a potential buyer should know. To use a 100 round drum, you have to cut off your rear sight for it to fit. The sear notch on the bolt is machined incorrectly at 90 degrees instead of 83 degrees. This causes damage to the sear notch and...