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Thread: Suppressed Barrel.....

  1. #1
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    Suppressed Barrel.....

    Hi,

    I was referred here by an UZI fanatic friend. I have a MK4 built by Don. It's basically like new though I'm trying to change that Does anyone make a suppressed barrel that I can swap out?

    Thanks

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    Would be nice if they did, but no. I've seen some former Mk4 tubes get the full-blown Mk5/L34A1 conversion - anything but a drop-in.

    The bayo lug complicates any such drop-in MP5SD style solution. Not a lot of volume to work with either.

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    Oh and welcome to UziTalk/SterlingTalk!

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    Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. Oh well, there is always the Vector Uzi for suppressed.

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    Don can set up your gun to have a 1/2 x 28tpi threaded adaptor built into the front of the receiver to line up with the barrell so you can screw on a regular 9mm can. He did it on mine and it works great. You don't really notice the adaptor on the gun and it allows me to put my Gemtech Trinity can on it. Give him a call.

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    When they are available, they will look something like this:

    Diamond K Precision Machine & Gunsmithing

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    Now my curiosity is peaked.

    Several observations, thoughts and questions immediately spring to mind which I dutifully spew out without much thoughtful analysis :

    0. Very nice work on the barrel/tri-lug!
    1. The endcap appears to be still brazed on.
    2. The tri-lug must be mounted after the barrel is installed and will have to come off if you need to remove the barrel (don't squib and bulge it under the endcap!) Maybe this is an application more suitable for LH thread than loctite.
    3) There must still be adequate surface area for the allen screws to shoulder on.
    4) Keep that jungle carbine bayo, well, for a jungle carbine. It looked silly on the Sterling anyhow.
    5) Is the residual bayo boss even necessary after the episiotomy? What's left of it sorta looks like it's giving birth to the barrel ... ugh, never mind. Could one just mill it off and move the tri-lug back a tad for a cleaner look?
    Last edited by MuzzleFlash; 05-01-2006 at 12:02 PM.
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  8. #8
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    I just spoke with Don. He said they lathe out the cap, press in the threaded fittign and then braze it on for good measure. For the Tri-lug I can use my adapter from Mark McWillis. I'm sending my Sterling to him in a few weeks. I figure what the hell, I can always have him change it back to normal with new parts if I really don't like it.

  9. #9
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    0. Very nice work on the barrel/tri-lug! Thanks
    1. The endcap appears to be still brazed on. That's correct
    2. The tri-lug must be mounted after the barrel is installed and will have to come off if you need to remove the barrel (don't squib and bulge it under the endcap!) Maybe this is an application more suitable for LH thread than loctite. LH or Loctite should work equally well
    3) There must still be adequate surface area for the allen screws to shoulder on. The mods had no effect whatsoever on the seats of the screw counterbores
    4) Keep that jungle carbine bayo, well, for a jungle carbine. It looked silly on the Sterling anyhow. I agree, a bayo on a SMG never made much sense to me, but whatever bakes yer cookie.
    5) Is the residual bayo boss even necessary after the episiotomy? What's left of it sorta looks like it's giving birth to the barrel ... ugh, never mind. Could one just mill it off and move the tri-lug back a tad for a cleaner look? I see no reason not to remove it, except it does allow you to keep that kinky gear head look, I kind of like it that way so decided to leave it.
    Diamond K Precision Machine & Gunsmithing

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    Quote Originally Posted by PK
    0. Very nice work on the barrel/tri-lug! Thanks

    5) Is the residual bayo boss even necessary after the episiotomy? What's left of it sorta looks like it's giving birth to the barrel ... ugh, never mind. Could one just mill it off and move the tri-lug back a tad for a cleaner look? I see no reason not to remove it, except it does allow you to keep that kinky gear head look, I kind of like it that way so decided to leave it.
    #0. Yes, I agree! I mentioned this exact method almost two years ago in THIS LINK (last paragraph), it's about time! Don't think anyone before PK had the kahoonas to bore out the endcap, thanks PK!

    #5. Not sure if the BFA (Blank Firing Adaptor) will still work with the endcap bored out, but the endcap should still work for the bayo.
    AUDE SAPERE

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    silencertests.com thread...

    http://www.silencertests.com/silence...?p=24657#24657

    DINK over at that site tells me that Scott Andrey makes STERLING MK4 barrels with or WITHOUT threaded extensions for $325.



    Contact info: http://www.mysw76.com/

  12. #12
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    Hi all,

    I just completed a short run of these barrels and have two remaining that are available.

    The barrel is machined in one piece, the adapter screws on after installation of the barrel.

    4140 ChroMoly steel, 10” twist, blued.

    The bullet passage in the Casing Cap must be bored through to use this barrel, but it’s a minor mod that yields big dividends as the Mk4 with a good can is truly a joy to shoot.

    Email if interested.
    Diamond K Precision Machine & Gunsmithing

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