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Thread: Please Help Mini-Uzi

  1. #1
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    Please Help Mini-Uzi

    I inherited a semiautomatic mini-uzi that was in parts. I put it back together and the bolt will not stay closed onto the barrel after it is cocked. (Additional information: I had to buy a complete trigger housing because I could not find the original. It is supposed to be anatomically correct with the sear ground down on the ejection side of the trigger housing. The bolt and the spring/firing pin combo parts appear to be correct. It does have the plastic buffer that holds the springs together that fits into the rear of the receiver. If it ever had an additional plastic block - of sorts similar to the full size uzi, that fits into the rear of the receiver before the spring and buffer combo goes in, I have never found it.) After the gun is cocked, the bolt can be pushed back with little effort. It does not fire a round - and not sure that I want it to if the bolt is not held tight against the barrel. Is there something missing? I placed some thick foam in the back of the receiver, which tightened up the action, but it will not fire. Any ideas?

  2. #2
    Registered User Don Stu's Avatar
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    Remove the bolt so that you can see the sear from the inside of the upper receiver. Does it move sufficiently when the trigger is pulled to release the firing pin? When the gun is fully assembled and you dry fire it after racking the slide, does it just click or does the firing pin slam forward? If it is just clicking then the firing pin is not locking back on the sear. This could be happening for many reasons, but it might just be that the buffer is too thick, and is restricting the stroke of the bolt. Are you assertively racking back the bolt? It might not be being pulled far enough.

    If none of this applies, let me know what happens in the tests I mentioned.

  3. #3
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    The buffer in my mini is only about 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch thick. Make sure it is pushed all the way back in the receiver. You should have two springs behind the bolt, the bolt spring and the striker spring. Take the striker assembly out and just put the bolt in the gun. Put the top cover on and see if the bolt will slide back and forth. Check to see that the bolt is not dragging on the top cover. The top cover clearance should be about .005 to .015. Is it not closing with a mag installed or without?

  4. #4
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    The firing pin does work (it does release when the trigger is pulled - the sear is holding it back until the trigger is pulled.) The firing pin does dent the primer but not enough to fire the round. At this point, the bolt is able to slide back about an inch by using a finger. When I added the foam inside the rear of the receiver, the bolt is pretty tight against the barrel - but it will not fire. (It did fire one time without the foam, but the bolt is very loose. This one-time firing occurred before I realized that something was wrong with bolt.) So, anyway, it is tighter with the foam which pushes up the plastic piece that holds the two springs together with the firing pin. However, it should not be necessary to use foam. I have seen a parts diagram for the closed-bolt full auto version that had a plastic spacer in the rear of the receiver, but there is not a spacer in the diagram for the semi-auto. I can't get D and D to answer their phone in hopes of getting some info or a buying new bolt and/or a new spring-firing pin assembly. I have sent my money to the ATF to make it an SBR, but I did this before trying to get the thing to cycle. I hope that I have not wasted my money.

  5. #5
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    Is there a buffer that is separate from the "buffer-looking" piece that holds the two springs together? I will go check the bolt without the spring in just a minute and see.

  6. #6
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    The bolt moves freely inside the receiver.

  7. #7
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    Possibly the wrong springs installed??? can you post a picture of the bolt firing pin assembly?

  8. #8
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    Picture

    Here are the parts. This how fare the bolt goes back without the pad in the back of the receiver.
    Attached Images    

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