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Thread: Integral Suppressor Question

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    Integral Suppressor Question

    If one built an integral suppressor,with a monocore type design, and attached it to the barrel before boring holes in the baffles, then:
    1) Solder an undersized drill bit to a brass rod that has same diameter as land distance, and using a chamber guide, drill a pilot hole;
    2) Use a larger bit to enlarge the baffle holes from the front of the suppressor, using a lathe to ensure tracking;

    As the baffles,and the monocore, would never be separated from the barrel (thereby assuring bore to baffle alignment) would one be able to use a much closer to bullet diameter?
    hole,

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    ... I'm pretty sure the drill bit part is not necessary. If you have this chucked up on the lathe, keeping everything concentric to the bore is the entire point of having a lathe.

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    With a properly threaded barrel to match a muzzle can, the suppressor bore can be really tight. Years ago i made a integral 10/22 out of a bull barrel and left the rifling. Cant get much tighter than that! It shot ok too. problem is with the ammo, assuming can is always tight and decent baffle design. That is why most suppressor makers use larger bores. It is a built in safety measure for iffy ammo and stacking tolerances
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    Quote Originally Posted by chili17 View Post
    With a properly threaded barrel to match a muzzle can, the suppressor bore can be really tight. Years ago i made a integral 10/22 out of a bull barrel and left the rifling. Cant get much tighter than that! It shot ok too. problem is with the ammo, assuming can is always tight and decent baffle design. That is why most suppressor makers use larger bores. It is a built in safety measure for iffy ammo and stacking tolerances
    I had at one time considered an integral suppressor built from a "super heavy" bull barrel (but I was thinking about boring out the rifling), but the barrels I saw were all fluted.

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    Registered User MPA guy's Avatar
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    I think I understand what you're asking.

    A 3' section of precision guide rod from McMaster Karr costs about $6

    I use them as guide rods to check the bore of my Form 1 cans.

    If you're just marking where to drill the hole, just use a dab of paint on the end of the rod and touch it to the surface of the baffle.

    Keep in mind though that the barrel is going to have rifling and there will be more slop doing that than simply making sure everything is straight in your lathe in the first place.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MPA guy View Post
    I think I understand what you're asking.

    A 3' section of precision guide rod from McMaster Karr costs about $6

    I use them as guide rods to check the bore of my Form 1 cans.

    If you're just marking where to drill the hole, just use a dab of paint on the end of the rod and touch it to the surface of the baffle.

    Keep in mind though that the barrel is going to have rifling and there will be more slop doing that than simply making sure everything is straight in your lathe in the first place.
    Basically, yes. My thought is, if the suppressor hole is perfectly in line with the bore, there will be less need for oversized, therefore less efficient, holes in baffles.

    My thought is to use a guide rod that matches the diameter of the rifling lands.

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    Registered User Don Stu's Avatar
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    Great plan, I look forward to the result. I did an integral in a Rem 870 12 gauge a few years ago for fun. By no means precise, but kind of worked!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Stu View Post
    Great plan, I look forward to the result. I did an integral in a Rem 870 12 gauge a few years ago for fun. By no means precise, but kind of worked!
    Ok, don't leave us hanging. More info,please.

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    After next month, I will be able to firm up plans, but I'm hoping to get paperwork done for an integral can on my Wiselite Sterling.

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    Everything is on "Hold" pending our son's surgery, which should occur between 01 May and 01 June

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