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Thread: Tec 22 Value ?

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimshady View Post
    You can suppress the "sport" model, you just have to cut threads on the bbl. Since the threaded version uses an uncommon 1/2"-20 thread it is probably better to start with the unthreaded version and have it cut to the industry standard 1/2"-28. With the factory threaded bbl you have to have it sleeved and recut, use a thread adapter, or if your suppressor maker offers it, a rear cap in 1/2"-20.
    I will probably thread it and add an A2 Flash Hider, just for looks.

  2. #42
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    Update:
    I got it; son took it out and test fired it; the 1st (&only) round popped the top cover open. The bolt appears to float in the receiver, and be held in only by top cover pressure.

  3. #43
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    There should be a little tab at the bottom rear of the topcover. On the back of the recoil spring assembly is a plastic piece with a "button" that extends rearward through a hole in the lower. Forward of that is a small open area with a tab that catches the tab on the topcover. In theory, if you slam down the topcover the two tabs meet, the block moves forward, the tab on the topcover slides down past the tab in the block, the block then moves rearward and secures the topcover. In the real world if you don't push in on the button each time you close it the topcover tab bends rearward and is barely held when closed.

    Try bending the topcover tab forward until it is exactly 90 degrees to the topcover.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimshady View Post
    There should be a little tab at the bottom rear of the topcover. On the back of the recoil spring assembly is a plastic piece with a "button" that extends rearward through a hole in the lower. Forward of that is a small open area with a tab that catches the tab on the topcover. In theory, if you slam down the topcover the two tabs meet, the block moves forward, the tab on the topcover slides down past the tab in the block, the block then moves rearward and secures the topcover. In the real world if you don't push in on the button each time you close it the topcover tab bends rearward and is barely held when closed.

    Try bending the topcover tab forward until it is exactly 90 degrees to the topcover.
    Thanks! It's more like 45 degrees, looking from the rear.

  5. #45
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    Sounds like the previous owner was not pushing the button. Carefully bend it forward, you know you have gone too far if the button doesn't fully pop out. The first shot will "adjust" it for you.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimshady View Post
    Sounds like the previous owner was not pushing the button. Carefully bend it forward, you know you have gone too far if the button doesn't fully pop out. The first shot will "adjust" it for you.
    The piece of angled plastic that engages the tab shows signs of wear consistent with slamming the cover; probably bent the tab.
    Not sure if I will have time for a test fire today, but I will at least bend the tab.

  7. #47
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    Tried it this afternoon; had to tweak the tab. After that, 1 FTF, 1 FTE. I'm gonna polish the Chamber to see if that helps. It came with an Eagle plastic 30 marked mag whose lips are ragged and the body seam is not connected at top approx 1/3, so it only holds 4-5 rounds before it gapes open so much it spits the ammo out; I'm gonna try eooxy or super glue before replacing, but I went into the deal realizing the mag was in bad shape.
    All in all, the gun appears to have been handled a bit carelessly (due to bent tab and burred plastic buffer), but not shot much (the hammer face is just beginning to show a hint of bare metal where the bolt overrides it; I'm really glad there's no damage from dry firing because that's a pain to fix without a lathe)

  8. #48
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    Grab a Ruger OEM 10rd 10/22 mag and try it. Plastic feed lips suck.

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    For some reason I bought two to them, both just under $300 each. I have had multiple issues with both of them using multiple combos of ammo/mags. Sometimes I get a whole mag out and then the next mag is noting but failures to eject/feed/extract. It is very frustrating but I like having them.

  10. #50
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    A few days ago it started having Hammer Follow; not firing, but Hammer follows the Bolt with every Round fired. There's no Disconnector that I can find, either in the gun or the schematics I looked at.
    Earlier today, while trying to figure it out, the firing pin broke. (I should have removed it while Dry Firing. Totally stupid on my part!)
    Still haven't figured out why the Hammer isn't staying cocked.

    I'm glad I knew I was buying a "problem gun".

  11. #51
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    Like several other designs (including the M11/NINE) the disconnect function is built into the trigger, which is why you feel trigger slap as it cycles. With the action open and the bolt removed, hammer forward and safety off, pull the trigger and hold it back. Now manually cock the hammer, it should hit the top rear of the trigger and force it backward slightly and then snap under it, holding the hammer back. It should stay there until you release the trigger, at which point the forward edge of the trigger will engage a notch on the hammer down by the axis pin, holding it cocked for the next shot. I suspect wear on either the hammer or trigger, or both, where the two meet when the trigger is pulled. You also might try pulling the trigger harder and softer, as your trigger finger is the "spring" that enables the disconnect function to work. It may be allowing the hammer to bounce out of engagement with the rear of the trigger but the continuous pressure on the trigger from your finger instantly allows the trigger to return to the fire position, preventing the hammer from catching on the full cock notch.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimshady View Post
    Like several other designs (including the M11/NINE) the disconnect function is built into the trigger, which is why you feel trigger slap as it cycles. With the action open and the bolt removed, hammer forward and safety off, pull the trigger and hold it back. Now manually cock the hammer, it should hit the top rear of the trigger and force it backward slightly and then snap under it, holding the hammer back. It should stay there until you release the trigger, at which point the forward edge of the trigger will engage a notch on the hammer down by the axis pin, holding it cocked for the next shot. I suspect wear on either the hammer or trigger, or both, where the two meet when the trigger is pulled. You also might try pulling the trigger harder and softer, as your trigger finger is the "spring" that enables the disconnect function to work. It may be allowing the hammer to bounce out of engagement with the rear of the trigger but the continuous pressure on the trigger from your finger instantly allows the trigger to return to the fire position, preventing the hammer from catching on the full cock notch.
    The Hammer doesn't catch when the Trigger is fully to the rear, but if the Trigger is slightly released, the Hammer catches.
    This weekend, I will make an "overtravel stop" by adding shims behind the Trigger, if that works, I will try an internal Stop before buying a new Hammer and Trigger.

    I appreciate the information; I was kinda stumped when I couldn't find a Disco, even in the schematics.

  13. #53
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    When "slightly released" where does it catch the hammer, at the rear or at the front? Unless it catches at the rear, it will still hammer follow or even fail to fire if you shim it. Sounds more like the trigger is not coming back far enough. Or something is broken/worn. Can you post pics of the FCG uncocked and cocked?

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimshady View Post
    When "slightly released" where does it catch the hammer, at the rear or at the front? Unless it catches at the rear, it will still hammer follow or even fail to fire if you shim it. Sounds more like the trigger is not coming back far enough. Or something is broken/worn. Can you post pics of the FCG uncocked and cocked?
    I will try to post pics this weekend; it appears to be catching at the rear

    ETA: Shined a light inside, definitely catching the rear; shim behind the Trigger works
    Last edited by sniperdoc; 09-17-2020 at 08:51 PM.

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