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Thread: Sterling Parts Kits

  1. #1
    UZI Talk Life Member

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    Sterling Parts Kits

    Old Sarges military parts Has reopened under Sarges Military Vault.Same company under a different name.Just got the email.For those interested in kits with original barrels.Bought 5 kits from them a few years ago.Some parts I received bolts and barrels were new unissued.Just a heads up.

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    I bought from them too. They look like the same nice kits, full shroud and original barrel.

    https://www.sargesmilitaryvault.com/...-british-l2a3/

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    Lots of original barrels in their various parts kit. That seems a departure of most parts kits I see these days.

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    Registered User DistalRadius's Avatar
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    Went ahead and grabbed one. Decent quality kits seem to be disappearing. Dunno if I'll ever manage to successfully build it up as an S/A SBR but hey, long term project goals.

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    Registered User DistalRadius's Avatar
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    Yare she be.

    KIMG0118 by E P, on Flickr

    Looks to be in relatively good shape compared to many currently available kits. Barrel looks great. Odd mix of torch and saw cuts, wonder what the story is there...


    Hmm. Now what?

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    The torch cut is because these days BATFE wants a good bit of the receiver destroyed. The shroud is not considered part of the receiver, so it can be saw cut away from the receiver section. This way the shroud can be welded to a new receiver section, saving a lot of work.

    The full shroud and original barrel are why this type of kit has a higher price. Last time these kits dried up original barrels were hard to find. Prices were over $400, just for the barrel.


    Quote Originally Posted by DistalRadius View Post
    Hmm. Now what?
    If you have a lathe and milling machine you can convert the bolt and make the other semi-auto parts for it. You will need to modify the trigger pack also, mill the sear, cut the body for the blocking bar and put in a welded pin to block the selector from going to full-auto. Make or get the blocking bars for the bolt and trigger pack. Get a set of semi-auto springs, firing pin drive spring and stronger small recoil spring. About $8 of 0.058” wall 4130 DOM tubing for the receiver. Get all your measurements from your kit before you take the scrap off by melting the braze with a MAP gas torch. Cut the slots in the new receiver and TIG weld everything together. The bolt blocking bar prevents the barrel from rotating to get around the back of the bayonet lug as it goes in and out. So, you have to remove the bayonet lug. If it’s a two-part lug, remove the backing plate and weld the lug back in. If it’s a one-part lug, mill of the part that sits inside the tube. Sandblast, parkerize and powder coat.

  7. #7
    Registered User DistalRadius's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traveler View Post
    The torch cut is because these days BATFE wants a good bit of the receiver destroyed. The shroud is not considered part of the receiver, so it can be saw cut away from the receiver section. This way the shroud can be welded to a new receiver section, saving a lot of work.

    The full shroud and original barrel are why this type of kit has a higher price. Last time these kits dried up original barrels were hard to find. Prices were over $400, just for the barrel.




    If you have a lathe and milling machine you can convert the bolt and make the other semi-auto parts for it. You will need to modify the trigger pack also, mill the sear, cut the body for the blocking bar and put in a welded pin to block the selector from going to full-auto. Make or get the blocking bars for the bolt and trigger pack. Get a set of semi-auto springs, firing pin drive spring and stronger small recoil spring. About $8 of 0.058” wall 4130 DOM tubing for the receiver. Get all your measurements from your kit before you take the scrap off by melting the braze with a MAP gas torch. Cut the slots in the new receiver and TIG weld everything together. The bolt blocking bar prevents the barrel from rotating to get around the back of the bayonet lug as it goes in and out. So, you have to remove the bayonet lug. If it’s a two-part lug, remove the backing plate and weld the lug back in. If it’s a one-part lug, mill of the part that sits inside the tube. Sandblast, parkerize and powder coat.
    Wow, really good info. That addresses much of what I was looking for. Thanks a ton.

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