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Thread: AR-S10 or whatever name i end up on.

  1. #1
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    AR-S10 or whatever name i end up on.

    Here is my current build. I am currently in the proceas of getting way to carried away with altering the design. It started out as i wanted a 9mm ar15 that could interchange mags with my Uzi. Decided to print a lower, bought a stripped upper, then started coming up with crazy ideas. Thought it would be cool to print a upper, but for obvious reasons that would work, so then had the idea of inserting a aluminum tube in my 3d print. Then i reminded myself how I have always wanted a Sten... so i decided to flip the magazine on the side... which obviously the ar15 bolt doesnt work for... unless i modify it... i did.

    This is the rough mockup. I am right now procrastinating doing some cad redesigns in fusion 360... obviously some of those parts arent fitting correctly.
    The tube is extruded 6061 with a 1" id. Then i ran a reamer through it to get a uniform size (actual size before reaming was .987" ). I already ruined one upper i made before buying the reamer on virtue of the fact that the barrel was a wee bit snug.

    I mentioned this was going to be a ar15 build. Once i can verify my proof of concept (ie that i can actually make this monstrocity work), im going to try welding one up out of sheet metal. Then the only similarities it would share with a AR is the trigger, feed ramp (colt style), and the magazine catch. Considered changing the mag catch to use the Uzi holes on the mag, but that would stick out quite a bit.

    I painted it before I should have, so it looks like garbage. Oh well.

    Overall length is about 20"
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    Sorry about the lousy pictures. Will get better ones when it looks better... like mebe when its actually all attached together

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    I printed everything except the lower in nylon

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    Looks bent in the picture. Its not. Just the weird angles of my lousy cuts, and the wide angle phone lens.
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    Looks promising

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    Registered User Bianchi's Avatar
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    hello! i love to look this kind of modification! thank you!

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    Nice work, look forward to seeing the finished product.

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    Somehow i got into the rythme of all of my prints being done way to late. So have been doing my cad work at night is getting to late, as i dont have to be done with the part until the printers ready... right? So yesterdays 1am design has a reversed mag release, last nights (or this mornings) design is missing a piece. I redesigned the receiver, figured less pieces would help make a stronger piece. I forgot to include the lug that the magazine housing attaches to. I can print that seperately and epoxy it to the receiver though. Its a easy repair.
    Last night my printer clogged, i think that little blue thing is supposed to be a heat shield or retainer of some kind. It seems to be printing fine without it. Would probably only be a issue with my ASA filament or something.
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    Well, printed that new lower, i had a massive jam while printing the updated mag holder portion... upshot of it is that is somehow literally filled my entire print head with plastic. Trying to seperate it all out i think i damaged my heater element. So i ordered a direct drive upgrade assembly. Should show up next week. Had to get a dual Z axis upgrade to support the extra weight of the new print head. So will be a week or two before i get back to this.

  10. #10
    Registered User Bianchi's Avatar
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    hi! if you print parts over 245° celsius you must use an all metal feeding pipe without ptfe in it for the Nylon!
    PTFE does not goes over 245° he melt and carbonise that will clogged all the printing head.


    https://www.beemong.com/wp-content/u.../FA10228-1.jpg
    i use other model of pipe be just to show the difference! you have to buy a set of nozzles and pipe cause you could clog again them!
    you must do two set of printing heads that could be swap according the wire that you use it.
    Last edited by Bianchi; 09-22-2021 at 11:41 AM.

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    Yeah, i was using a all metal hotend. My printer is a ender 3 pro v2. I had a all metal hotend in it. The one i am putting in is all metal as well.

  12. #12
    Registered User Bianchi's Avatar
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    ok you choosed a good printer with the right parts in it and goodly configured! i upgraded my old printer with a chinese card and parts and i past a month to learn how to set up a marlin to get something clean at print.

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    Yeah, did a little looking for what would be the best bang for the buck before buying.
    Mine also runs a version of marlin. They can be a little bit of a headache to setup...

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    Havent forgotten about this project, my direct drive was lost in shipping. So had to reorder one.

  15. #15
    Registered User Bianchi's Avatar
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    hi! we can wait! but alway's want to discover what you will do and yes Marlin gives headache!
    Last edited by Bianchi; 10-14-2021 at 02:27 PM.

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    Back in business. Made a foam enclosure so i can run the prints in the drafty room in the winter
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  17. #17
    Registered User Bianchi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericthered View Post
    Back in business. Made a foam enclosure so i can run the prints in the drafty room in the winter
    The print will be better! try to see if you can print at a lower temperature with this enclosure because it keeps the heat... if the room is really windy as you said, that’s not necessary! Forget what I said! You did the right thing.

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    Heres a couple of prints. The upper is in nylon. The lower and the little block thing is a carbon fiber mixed plastic. Switched mainly for cleaner prints and am running out of nylon. Was going to print it as one piece, but ended up seperating the upper sleeve from the lower. I am going to re print the lower, as i had to do a little clearance modification for the hammer.
    Had another massive jam. Amazingly i was able to easily pry it off without damaging anything.

    The idea behind the rail thing on the front is can hang a brass catcher from it.
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    Back to the design board. I cracked the lower while assembling it. And the front lug on the rear upper (center lug on the lower) interferes with the hammer. So the hammer gets about 1/8" from the firing pin. Im not sure if the extractor will work properly at this point. It does feed. The grip is not attached in the pictures, it attaches via epoxie, and i didnt want to commit that far with the epoxie before i knew it worked. Which it didnt, so i still have a grip.

    Im thinking on continuing development on the printed model (mark 1) while starting development on the aluminum model (mark 2). As i dont have any equipment to weld aluminum, im going to braze it. I will post my progress for it on this thread.

    What i am discovering is the greatest hindrance to prototyping with a 3d printer is the print speed. The lower is a 15 hour print, the rear upper is a 12 hour print, the magazine attachment is 13 hours, and the front ring is 1 hour. The lower was 20 hours when i first made it into a two piece upper/lower. I have about half a dozen bad lowers printed, not as many uppers, but about that many if not more magazine attachments.
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  20. #20
    Registered User Bianchi's Avatar
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    you can gain time! all depend the material that you use it, by experiencing it you know it better and can reduce the infill and change the layer type! the positioning of the part could be also a gain time! but that could also reduce or improve his solidity.Mistakes help to learn
    Last edited by Bianchi; 10-29-2021 at 04:04 AM.

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