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When our kids were in the 6 to 8 y/o range they (and classmates) used the .22 kit behind the house to kill the Great Pumpkin in fall, then Frosty the Snowman in winter. Every kid today remembers doing this as though it was just yesterday. Depressing the grip safety was a non-issue as I always...

My Vector kit runs very well with Minimag RN or HP, and 40 gr Blazer. Consistent power level is the thing. On a hot day CCI SV will work. Some lots of Rem GBs work. A chronograph reveals some rounds with low velocity in lots that don't work. Anything with a wide HP, like most bulk Win...

Parts kits, as said. At an early Eden shoot guy noticed the Uzi and said he had three surplus barrels. Planned to get a transferrable Uzi, then lost interest. Wanted $55 for all. No-brainer for me.

Couple of mine. One shows wear like yours, cycled a bazillion times. The other not so much. I wouldn't worry about it. Never had an Uzi stop or slow due to lack of lube. Used everything from CLP to grease in viscosity. Saw no difference, tho extreme cold might suggest something thinner...

What Arch said. Pull the lower, and feel for ejector looseness. Also look for a chip or break on the extractor hook with a magnifier. Doubt the topcover suddenly got bent out of shape. Make sure the trunion hasn't moved due to welds letting go.

Tho I don't load 9 anymore for reasons stated in other threads, know many do and have the discipline to make safe ammo. Hard rule: I never allow anyone else's reloads in my MGs. Use reloads, including those from people I trust, in rifle/pistol/shotgun Title 1s. Given many newbies free...

Don't have it in 9mm, but the .45 ACP equivalent is about .45 Super. 230s broke 975 fps from my 4" Combat Commander. Would install a heavier spring if a steady diet was planned.

IIRC, some cases split early, maybe 10 reloads. Then nothing till well over 50. Incomplete obturation is more common than you might think. If you load anything - rifle, pistol, shotgun - to relatively low pressures you'll see soot down about to the pressure ring. I've seen it with all...

Late '80s purchased a RL1050 in .45 ACP and decided to test lifespan. Started with a batch of nickel plated RP headstamp (which I now consider near the bottom of the barrel for .45). Never trimmed one. Tossed when neck or body splits were noted. At the 100 reloads mark the original 300 cases...

Agree with Chef. Left receiver has around 30k rounds but was re-parked roughly following backplate reweld. About 2k since the refinish. Right receiver w/about 6k.

Dirk, I've shot about every brand of factory there is or was. No issues over decades and thousands of rounds. It's not a floating firing pin issue, as with M-16s. As explained to me, it's a) the occasional high primer and, b) pressures to which some folks like to run SMG 9mm. I stopped...

Yes, that's how I've done it. Use a steel rod with a solid handle. Jam the brush hard. Give the rod a good whack with a wood mallet

The reversed brush technique works best if you run the rod in from the muzzle, attach then lodge brush hard, then rap the rod hard at muzzle end. That's always worked for me. Trying to pull the rod back won't give same impact force. Also, use a steel brush (not bronze).

What Brenbuilds said. Use non-domestic 124 gr.

First, what do you mean by "jammed"? Failure to feed, chamber, extract, eject?? What is it doing or not doing. Kinda difficult to give good advice without a clear understanding of the problem. Second, just to be clear, is this a semiauto Action Arms (closed bolt) or a conversion SMG...

Likely the kit is worth alot more than you paid for it. Scroll down the subforum to another thread on .22 kits. A guess based on recent listings: $1800 to $2400. Dunno about the suppressor.

Worth fixing for sure. Cratering, of itself, may not be the cause of your FTFires. One of my M-16 pins cratered at some point, but went on working for another 10k or so. It finally broke back at the flange, or I'd still be using it. Maybe best to send bolt with the host gun so your smith...

I'd skip Federal 100 and 100M. M in this case stands for match, not magnum. Guys who shoot guns with light hammer strikes love Federals. A sensitive primer is about the last thing you'd want in an open bolt gun. Not just perfs, think OOB. Since your gun is already perf-ing primers I'd skip...

Slowmo, A better primer for open bolt 9 is the Remington 6-1/2. Technically a SR primer, but it's intended for .22 Hornet. I've loaded it in 9 and .38 Spl. No change in data - lots of info available on the web about this. People use 6-1/2s in the lower pressure .222 Rem, but they're not...

Cratered. None of mine look that way. Hard primers, suppose. Perforations/gas cutting usually causes pits.