Best way to finish a receiver?

[Brandon28rw]

I’ve seen some people blue it and some people parkerize it and others just spray paint it. What is the best way to finish a receiver? I also see people say Aluma Hyde 2 black or semis gloss black looks good too. Thanks in advance

 

[arch stanton]

parkerized then powder coat holds up very well to solvents

 

[Brandon28rw]

Is parkerizing something I can try at home or does a shop have to do it?

 

[Brandon28rw]

parkerized then powder coat holds up very well to solvents

Is parkerizing something I can try at home or does a shop have to do it?

 

[mattnh]

Is parkerizing something I can try at home or does a shop have to do it?

Small parts are pretty simple with a couple old crockpots or even glass jars and an old microwave over,
the issue with bigger stuff is you need a couple non-magnetic stainless tubs + heaters w/temp control.

Lots of HowTo videos on Youtube

 

[Brandon28rw]

Small parts are pretty simple with a couple old crockpots or even glass jars and an old microwave over,
the issue with bigger stuff is you need a couple non-magnetic stainless tubs + heaters w/temp control.

Lots of HowTo videos on Youtube

Dang. I’ll probably do something like aluma Hyde or kg guncoat than

 

[slimshady]

A big stainless steel "stock pot" would probably be big enough to accept an UZI receiver. Heat it on a Coleman stove or the backyard grill. Some guy even made a park tank out of schedule 80 drain pipe with an end cap reduced down to accept an electric water heater element. All you need is a non-steel/iron tank big enough for the parts and a way to get it up to 180-190 degrees F. Lots of materials can handle 200 degrees. The solution is purchased as a concentrate and mixed with water to make the working solution. I like Brownells, their instructions are on their website too. After the solution is prepared and heated, you just put your freshly degreased and blasted parts in the solution and wait a few minutes for the gassing to stop. Pull out a parked item. Rinse well and let dry if painting, or soak in oil if leaving the Park as-is.

Parkerizing is the perfect "primer" for various paints as it is porous and absorbs the paint like a sponge. Any of the bake-on cure paints will work well. My favorite is GunKote. The room temp drying paints tend to not be as durable as the heat cure.

 

[mattnh]

I’ve seen people use alum foil turkey pan as a park tank, lol

 

[Jmacken37]

Parkerizing is NOT difficult. You can heat the solution on your grill outside.

 

[Villafuego]

I use a 2 burner hot plate, and bought a few stainless steam tray/buffet tubs from a local food supply place …..I used to use the Brownells solution, but now use a homebrew zinc phosphate recipe. Best way to finish an Uzi I've found is zinc phosphate park, then a coat of Norrells semi-gloss black moly resin. Finish is a dead ringer for FN or Action Arms (semi) Uzis.
McKay receivers need a good media blasting before parking

 

[kanewtervalve]

I've parked myself and with a pro, best park jobs were from items sandblasted first and cleaned with purple power. It wasn't that bad of an undertaking when parts
kits were 99 bucks from Tapco and plentiful, made sandblasting and parking well worthwhile.

 

[painted black]

I use a 2 burner hot plate, and bought a few stainless steam tray/buffet tubs from a local food supply place …..I used to use the Brownells solution, but now use a homebrew zinc phosphate recipe. Best way to finish an Uzi I've found is zinc phosphate park, then a coat of Norrells semi-gloss black moly resin. Finish is a dead ringer for FN or Action Arms (semi) Uzis.
McKay receivers need a good media blasting before parking

Are you in FL and would be willing to share your recipes or help me?

 

[Brandon28rw]

A big stainless steel "stock pot" would probably be big enough to accept an UZI receiver. Heat it on a Coleman stove or the backyard grill. Some guy even made a park tank out of schedule 80 drain pipe with an end cap reduced down to accept an electric water heater element. All you need is a non-steel/iron tank big enough for the parts and a way to get it up to 180-190 degrees F. Lots of materials can handle 200 degrees. The solution is purchased as a concentrate and mixed with water to make the working solution. I like Brownells, their instructions are on their website too. After the solution is prepared and heated, you just put your freshly degreased and blasted parts in the solution and wait a few minutes for the gassing to stop. Pull out a parked item. Rinse well and let dry if painting, or soak in oil if leaving the Park as-is.

Parkerizing is the perfect "primer" for various paints as it is porous and absorbs the paint like a sponge. Any of the bake-on cure paints will work well. My favorite is GunKote. The room temp drying paints tend to not be as durable as the heat cure.

What kind of park solution would you recommend?

 

[slimshady]

Manganese and zinc are the two choices. Manganese has a rougher finish and ranges from a dark grey to black. Zinc has a finer surface finish and ranges from light to dark grey. The zinc is the stuff that turns slightly green after years of handling and is best as a undercoat for the bake on paints. It's personal preference, really, usually based on color.

I've always used the Brownells solutions, but others do work well. Some make their own, the concentrate is just phosphoric acid with the metal dissolved into it. usually folks mix manganese as it is available as part of a D-cell battery. I prefer the commercial solutions, you get a consistent product.