So I got this FA vector a couple of months ago. The bolt only had two marks on the rear of the bolt. Now a thousand rounds later it starting to show a lot more. I watch the video on adjusting the top cover and the spacing is correct. The main thing I'm worried about is it look like it hitting the bottom of the ratcheting plate towards the front. I'm worried that it will damage it. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks
Bolt wear a problem or not
- Thread starter redweirdbeard
- Start date
brenbuilds
UZI Talk Supporter
That appears to be finish wear on the bolt; completely normal. You might have a slightly tight top cover, but if it's running fine it's a non issue. UZI bolts are quite hard. Off the top of my, head the ideal top cover gap is about .015" in.
If you're uncomfortable modifying the top cover yourself, I would recommend purchasing a few more, as they are spare parts you should have on hand anyways. They all tend to fit slightly differently, so buy a few and test them out.
If you're uncomfortable modifying the top cover yourself, I would recommend purchasing a few more, as they are spare parts you should have on hand anyways. They all tend to fit slightly differently, so buy a few and test them out.
Those wear patterns look similar to what I have seen, except for the ratchet wear. As noted, might be a tight top cover. Do you use any kind of lubricant? Looks pretty dry. Won’t stop the finish wear but not a bad idea for long-term wear.
Dirk Hawthorne
Well-known member
looks like finish wear to me. you should check your clearance between bolt and top cover, using a feeler gauge.
I use Mobil 1 synthethic motor oil to lube my UZI.
pour a puddle out on your bench, dip a finger into it and use the finger in question to apply a light coat of lube to the bolt and interior surfaces of the receiver
then run a line of oil up the recoil spring and drip some on the moving parts in the grip assembly
Don't go crazy with it but don't be stingy, either. If you get droplets of oil sprayed in your face during firing, that's too much.
my round count is 20,000 or so, and everything seems to be ducky
one extractor lost its springiness and had to be replaced, but that's probably because of "spring set". My vector is from year 2000, but the bolt and extractor are from who knows? 1975?
I use Mobil 1 synthethic motor oil to lube my UZI.
pour a puddle out on your bench, dip a finger into it and use the finger in question to apply a light coat of lube to the bolt and interior surfaces of the receiver
then run a line of oil up the recoil spring and drip some on the moving parts in the grip assembly
Don't go crazy with it but don't be stingy, either. If you get droplets of oil sprayed in your face during firing, that's too much.
my round count is 20,000 or so, and everything seems to be ducky
one extractor lost its springiness and had to be replaced, but that's probably because of "spring set". My vector is from year 2000, but the bolt and extractor are from who knows? 1975?
I do similar, but I bought these little eye drop bottles off Amazon that I fill with Mobil 1 (I use the thick V-Twin 20W50):
https://www.amazon.com/BeiHCain-Pla...8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
I just run beads of lube down the wear paths and raised guide ribs of the bolt on the sides and bottom. Works pretty well. The viscous oil stays in place pretty well, and even after a range session, I can pop the top cover off, and there will still be oil on top.
Yeah the ratchet wear was the main thing I was worried about. I'll try adjusting it more. I did lube it right before I went to the range but it didn't last. It was Lucas extreme duty gun oil. So I won't be using it again.
Interesting, I've only heard good things about lucas gun oil and recently bought some myself. Seemed to work ok for me but I have not used it in an uzi. Maybe it's better for the smaller moving parts. You may even want to try grease on the top of the bolt if you want something to stay. EGW grease always worked well for me. Otherwise I'm sure white lithium grease would work well too.
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Samuel_Hoggson
Well-known member
Couple of mine. One shows wear like yours, cycled a bazillion times. The other not so much. I wouldn't worry about it.
Never had an Uzi stop or slow due to lack of lube. Used everything from CLP to grease in viscosity. Saw no difference, tho extreme cold might suggest something thinner. .22 kit lubrication is another matter.
Never had an Uzi stop or slow due to lack of lube. Used everything from CLP to grease in viscosity. Saw no difference, tho extreme cold might suggest something thinner. .22 kit lubrication is another matter.
The Uzi is a sloppy firearm it doesn't need heavy oils or grease that stuff picks up all the debris. You can run the gun dry meaning a dry lube like Moly Coat or any dry lube even dot 5 brake fluid works well very sparingly applied. If the gun was was a hand fit tight parts build then I would use some type of lube. Get a can of spray moly. All you have to do when done shooting is wipe away and the moly stays
Dirk Hawthorne
Well-known member
I tried using grease in my UZI just for the heck of it, and I thought it was awful. It didn't improve performance in any way and it just picked up a lot of grit.
The nice thing about using Mobil 1 is that if the gun gets hot the oil doesn't start to bake and gum up, which can happen with regular gun oil.
Guns are like any other machinery, they like to be fairly clean and they like some lubrication.
On the other hand, you don't have to slop guns full of oil. If they will run when dry, then they obviously don't need to be oozing with lube. Just a thin coat will do.
The nice thing about using Mobil 1 is that if the gun gets hot the oil doesn't start to bake and gum up, which can happen with regular gun oil.
Guns are like any other machinery, they like to be fairly clean and they like some lubrication.
On the other hand, you don't have to slop guns full of oil. If they will run when dry, then they obviously don't need to be oozing with lube. Just a thin coat will do.
I'm a huge fan of Hornady One shot. Not the case lube, but the gun cleaner. Goes on dry and testing has showed it to have amazing anti corrosion properties and excellent friction reduction. Since it dries, nothing sticks to it either. I'd imagine it wears off faster than oil or grease so with my firearms I spray one shot since its so easy in a spray can then apply very light oil to the high wear surfaces.
I bought a can of that too. I'll have to give a go on the next range trip.
Thanks I'm glad it wasn't just me. It's been 100 percent so far. I'm just going to lube it up and let it rip!
Dirk Hawthorne
Well-known member
I used to have a MAC10 that I would run until it was literally as hot as a soldering iron.
One time I handed it to my brother and he touched the metal and it made one of those nasty whitish-yellow burn marks on his skin. Like a soldering iron would do.
That amount of heat would turn Rem Oil into carbon deposits, and it would stop running, even though it was un-jammable.
Aside from torturing a gun like that, probably ANY oil would do a good job for lubing a firearm, including the oil your wife has in the kitchen, like corn oil.
But given the carbonizing of the Rem Oil in the MAC, I started using Mobil 1 synthetic oil. And NOTHING will bother that oil. You could heat that oil with a cutting torch and it would still work.
So why not use it for gun oil? What could be better?
One time I handed it to my brother and he touched the metal and it made one of those nasty whitish-yellow burn marks on his skin. Like a soldering iron would do.
That amount of heat would turn Rem Oil into carbon deposits, and it would stop running, even though it was un-jammable.
Aside from torturing a gun like that, probably ANY oil would do a good job for lubing a firearm, including the oil your wife has in the kitchen, like corn oil.
But given the carbonizing of the Rem Oil in the MAC, I started using Mobil 1 synthetic oil. And NOTHING will bother that oil. You could heat that oil with a cutting torch and it would still work.
So why not use it for gun oil? What could be better?
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Dirk Hawthorne
Well-known member
The looser a gun is, the better it will run dirty.
The tighter it is, the better the accuracy.
That is the challenge with designing military firearms.
People always used to say that WWII 1911s rattled "like a coffee can full of bolts." But they worked when they were literally oozing with crud.
The UZI is definitely a "ooze with crud" military gun.
I tried using lubriplate grease in my UZI and it was a flat failure. That big, heavy mechanism in the UZI seems to need a robust recoil thump to work well, and anything that sucks energy out of it seems to lower the reliability.
That's my experience, anyway.
I would go with a low viscosity, light oiling.
mike
UZI Talk Life Member
My my experience with my full auto is just the opposite. Running it dry I had issues. I got one of them Barber brushes that you would put shaving cream on with put some oil on it and brush the inside of the receiver and the bolt I have been doing that for years and now it feeds everything flat nose subsonic ammo and anything I put through it and have never had any issues crazy the way things work .
glockman
Well-known member
Light coat of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and let-er-rip tater chip. I just turn my empty quarts over into a jar to drain the residual oil into after an oil change. Or.... you could do it the easy way, buy a quart and be done with it. Always have plenty around to lube all of my firearms. Has a great smell to it when ran in full auto for a few magazines also. It smells like.... victory
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