Dealing with minor rust on blued PS M10

[Tony-Ri]

So on any other gun I would have just polished off the rust and gotten out the cold blue, but I don’t want to jack this up any more than it is from my lack of cleaning. (Since the stock adapter is pitted too, I’m guessing the pitting there is my fault. ��*♂️

I have some minor rust in some scratches and some small amounts of very minor rust and surface pitting around the grip. Looks like it needed to be cleaned before putting away a few times. What would y’all recommend for fixing it besides a full reblue? What should I do to stop the rust and any further damage?

 

[arch stanton]

oil and #0000 steel wool is about it for that. It will still look freckled but should stop the rust. or try the copper penny rub trick on it

 

[Deerhurst]

Might be able to steel wool it and re-blue stuff with oxypho blue. I have not tried anything that was previously blued with oxypho yet. Bought it for a reweld I'm working on.

 

[Hey]

Floglube paste will not let rust grow. I always put a thin layer and rub in with a cloth inside and out on guns being stored for a while.

 

[smec_289]

Simple issue to resolve. I have done hobby restorations on several used, abused, and surplus firearms. You can learn from my mistakes. Steel wool and oil works ok but it also thins out the bluing. Pennies make for a good "rough cut" on moderately scaly guns. For something like this your best option is "Big 45" https://www.amazon.com/Big-45-Frontier-Metal-Cleaner/dp/B07RM692X8 which has a soft alloy so that it won't damage the bluing. Just the same you will want to use plenty of oil (I just use wd40). If the oil develops a brown tint you will know that it is working. When you are done with that clean it really really really well and switch over to oxpho blue or T4 blue. I have tried ALL of the cold bluing solutions and these are the best. I buy them both by the pint. I don't get as good of results from the cream but some people like it. T4 is a little faster and a little darker, oxpho is a little more of the traditional "blue". Both should be fine over existing bluing but test a small sample area first. If you use it on midcentury Berettas for example it actually strips the factory bluing. Apply very wet and keep rubbing until you see the color change. For best results you will need to apply three or four times with buffing and cleaning in between. This is the point where you will want to use oiled steel wool but remember to keep it oiled and clean it well before the next application of blue.

 

[gorillastomp]

I use big 45 also. It’s some very good stuff. Much better than steel wool.

 

[renovate7]

NEVER use steel wool. ONLY USE bronze wool. Won't harm the bluing. Available everywhere

 

[ferndog1]

Just a heads-up
DO NOT use rust (soaking) removers like Vapo Rust products or WD40's Rust Soak, they remove blueing.

 

[arch stanton]

Just a heads-up
DO NOT use rust (soaking) removers like Vapo Rust products or WD40's Rust Soak, they remove blueing.

or naval jelly

 

[gww250]

A product called 'Nevr-Dull' is excellent as well. safe to use even on soft metals. I use it instead of brass wool. Check on a small spot to make sure it won't remove your old bluing. I use it mostly on antique guns but have good results on modern Remington shotguns

 

[Paul Kersey]

I know a light coat of oil is great to keep rust from re-appearing after it's been removed, but I have also used just plain car wax as well and that seems to work. Anyone else use a wax for bluing protection?

 

[ianian]

That should come out with light steel wool and whatever oil you have around- gun oil or 3-in-1. Rub it LIGHTLY so that you don’t scratch the crap out of it. If all else fails, you can just boil it a few times to reblue it.

 

[MAC MAN]

I noticed on my Big 45 package that for an example they use is a photo of the inside of a MAC-10 Barrel.