Fleming M11/22 compatible suppressors

[Smoke&Silence]

I have been tinkering with this little .22 upper for my M11/9 and I feel like I’m finally getting an acceptable level of function with the right combination of a proper RamLine magazine and it’s preferred ammo plus a suppressor. The problem I’m running into is that my AB Little Bird is the only can I have that the first baffle is far enough forward to clear the length of muzzle that extends beyond the threads and the AB is really not built for FA use. I bought a Hughes Precision barrel extension to try but it bottoms out on the muzzle before it threads all the way on.

So my question is this: those of you who have a Fleming kit, what suppressor are you using that clears the goofy anteater barrel? Are you using an adapter? The thought has crossed my mind to simply pull the barrel and cut it down and recrown it at the end of the threads but I’d rather leave it original if possible. I’m currently leaning toward boring out the Hughes extension enough to clear the muzzle and hoping for concentricity.

 

[SecondAmend]

I had the same situation with my M11-380 and the Fleming .22LR upper. What I did (but I only did as a tryout since my .22 silencer isn't full auto rated) was to install two of the nut like spacers that are specifically designed and specially manufactured to exact tolerances for such instances. IIRC, SilencerCo and Tactical Innovations and maybe others have sold them. That got the silencer far enough out so it could be installed and still left enough threads engaged for secure, concentric installation. Not the most pretty, but it seemed to work for my silencer, but might not work for yours.
Instead of a silencer, I ended up putting a long extension on the barrel to get the muzzle end far enough away from my support hand for safety and comfortable, controllable handling. And the upper works with high power .22LR ammo such as CCI MiniMags, so no "silencer boost" is needed.
Good luck with whatever you decide to implement.
MHO, YMMV, etc.

 

[KickStand]

I’ve got a Fleming M10-22 kit.
I just screwed on my Spectre II can and it work great.


Edit, here’s mine with the 22 can

 

[theduke]

The one time.... one mag that mine worked on a M11/9 was with the factory SWD huge can .

 

[skoda]

I use an AAC Element which is full auto rated. But mine is from the old AAC company. The new company has a 'Gen 3' version out that is also good for full auto (and 5.7x28 interestingly). but I don't know if it's the same at the entrance.

If you can get by without a suppressor a muzzle compensator might work for you as well. It does on mine (home made).

 

[root]

I use a OG Spectre by SWR on my flemming upper.
Works great no issues with direct thread mounting.
It is FA rated.
Someone had one for sale in the NFA section a bit ago not sure it is still for sale.
They are tanks Henry used to make vids shooting 556 through them.
Only down side is after 500 rnds or so you need the pusher tool to get them apart.

 

[Smoke&Silence]

I appreciate all of the replies! I decided to go ahead and bore out the Hughes Precision adapter just enough to clear the muzzle. The way I figured it, worst case scenario is I’m out $28 if it didn’t work or if it had alignment issues. I picked a bit that was slightly larger than the extended muzzle but didn’t contact the female threads and flagged it just beyond the depth I needed to clear the muzzle. It cut nicely and the female threads remained clean. It threaded on nicely and passed the alignment check. I went out and dumped 20 rounds and I’m pleased with how it sounds. Next up is the improved extractor and getting my hands on a few more Ram-Line mags.

 

[KickStand]

You can modify a Ruger BX-25 mag to work. I did it and it was kind a slow process with a hand file. It works okay with it but I still need to make some adjust to the Ruger mag.
I’d try some of the older butler creek mags (the ones with the metal feedlips). Not the hot lips ones. They still might make them.


Good luck.

 

[Smoke&Silence]

I bought a pair of the BX-25s as well as an old Doc Bannick BX copycat and have fitted them to clear the bolt but they still struggle. They don’t lock in as well as the Ram-Line and I noticed the ejector face is located further back. I think that contributes to the poor ejection performance compared to the RL. I haven’t given up on them and I plan to continue tinkering with them but I’d like a few more RLs to have on hand in the meantime. The Fleming is a giggle machine when it’s running well but it gets frustrating when it decides it’s hungry for empty brass.

 

[skoda]

My experience as well which is why I prefer the Lage 22. But I wouldn't sell my Fleming. The side magazine is kinda cool.

Any one ever try the GSG 110 round drums on a Fleming? I tried one but couldn't get it to feed more than a few rounds before jamming.

 

[root]

Skoda I tried the blackdog 10/22 drum but due to the side feed it hung so crooked it wouldn't even feed rounds by hand.

Sold it to a buddy with a 10/22
Only drum I ever tried.
Could possibly hold the gun gangsta style with the drum down so it isn't crooked in the mag well but I figured the empties would just land back in the ejection port so never tried it.

ETA:
Kickstand glad ya got those fitted.
If it wasn't to much work I might try one day to fit the pair I have.

 

[skoda]

Hmmm, How about with the drum on top and the ejection port down? Might have to give that a try the next time I shoot.

PS: Sorry for the hijacking.

 

[SecondAmend]

On the subject of "10/22" mags in the Fleming .22 uppers, my experience: two,10 round Ruger BX mags worked out of the package; one 15 round BX was good to go new, and a second one and three 25 round BXs needed to have the front and back of the bolt channel filed down quite a bit; three Champion 25 round stick mags only required minor front and back of the bolt channel filing.
A ProMag 55 round 10/22 pattern drum only required minor front and back of the bolt channel filing for bolt clearance, but had to have graphite powder added during loading; and the spring tension is so high that after firing the first round, on the stroke rearward the bolt could not overcome the drag from the next round pushing up on the bolt, so the bolt stops part way back. I have an AR pattern feed tower, 50 round BDM mag and it also exhibits a high spring force on the ammo, so I haven't bought a 10/22 feed tower based on the ProMag drum experience.

CCI MiniMag 40 gr., round nose, copper coated ammo has been the most reliable ammo that I've tried.

I have a couple other firearms that use 10/22 pattern mags and mags that worked or didn't work in the Fleming upper work in them, so my 10/22 pattern mag count for range trips can be consolidated.

MHO, YMMV, etc.

 

[root]

I only run CCI subs they cycle the upper fine.
And the butler creek 25 rnd mags.
Never tried it without the can or in semi.

When I 1st got it I was shooting it and couldn't place the sound as it was a familiar sound.
was out shooting with fellow friend and board member Kramer
Finally Kramer said it sounded like a old singer sewing machine.
He was right! That was where I knew the sound from, my moms old 70's commercial singer she ran the snot out of when I was a kid.

Made me laugh pretty good that a MG could and did sound like a sewing machine.

 

[Smoke&Silence]

Hijack away! Any discussion on the topic is good discussion by me.

As far as magazines I have tried, the Ruger brand mags in all have been somewhat disappointing. They are very tight in the mag well, most require fitting to the bolt, and have been lackluster in ejection performance. The 10rd mags from various 10/22s I have lying around will lock in but are very difficult to remove. I have only actually fired one of them. The Doc Bannick mag struggled with both feeding and ejection. I also tried a 30rd plastic lipped Butler Creek and a 32rd ProMag that both required no modification to fit but neither would eject. The Ram-Line 30rd is the only one that usually doesn’t have issues.

As to ammo, round nose Mini Mags have worked well while the hollow points jam on the barrel. The CCI subsonic HPs have done ok. I’ve actually had the best luck with Fiocchi plated RN 1240fps.

I’ll keep tinkering and experimenting with different ammo, mags, moon phases, tongue position, etc. The beautiful thing about .22 is even when it’s being difficult, at least it’s cheap.

 

[Roaster72]

You can modify a Ruger BX-25 mag to work. I did it and it was kind a slow process with a hand file. It works okay with it but I still need to make some adjust to the Ruger mag.
I’d try some of the older butler creek mags (the ones with the metal feedlips). Not the hot lips ones. They still might make them.


Good luck.

Back when I was fooling with mine, I used Tactical Innovations mags. You could adjust their angle and depth and they used the same metal feedblock as the Butler Creek mags.

 

[Roaster72]

Hijack away! Any discussion on the topic is good discussion by me.

As far as magazines I have tried, the Ruger brand mags in all have been somewhat disappointing. They are very tight in the mag well, most require fitting to the bolt, and have been lackluster in ejection performance. The 10rd mags from various 10/22s I have lying around will lock in but are very difficult to remove. I have only actually fired one of them. The Doc Bannick mag struggled with both feeding and ejection. I also tried a 30rd plastic lipped Butler Creek and a 32rd ProMag that both required no modification to fit but neither would eject. The Ram-Line 30rd is the only one that usually doesn’t have issues.

As to ammo, round nose Mini Mags have worked well while the hollow points jam on the barrel. The CCI subsonic HPs have done ok. I’ve actually had the best luck with Fiocchi plated RN 1240fps.

I’ll keep tinkering and experimenting with different ammo, mags, moon phases, tongue position, etc. The beautiful thing about .22 is even when it’s being difficult, at least it’s cheap.

Does your kit have the aluminum block in the bolt? That block helps keep the empties out of the gun.

 

[skoda]

Does your kit have the aluminum block in the bolt? That block helps keep the empties out of the gun.

Oh do tell!!!! Never heard of that but it's most interesting because my biggest problem now is empty cases jamming up the works.

Do you have any photos or other guides to how they work?

 

[Roaster72]

Oh do tell!!!! Never heard of that but it's most interesting because my biggest problem now is empty cases jamming up the works.

Do you have any photos or other guides to how they work?

I'll try to get some pics tonight but its in my shop and it has suddenly turned cold here so no promises.

 

[Smoke&Silence]

Does your kit have the aluminum block in the bolt? That block helps keep the empties out of the gun.

No it does not but I am very interested to see this as well.