M11/Nine advice, help or suggestions. Mag release, hammer pin, sling, drum, etc.
- Thread starter 3Jane
- Start date
UZI Talk Life Member
Ramp and polish the bolt like this one
Anyone tried the semi auto Lage trigger? It is said to reduce slap. I have one, but it has not been installed.
3jane.. https://usmachinegun.com/proddetail.php?prod=M11SA-0136
I too had problems with the FTF hammer. It would bind up every now and then. Still had the Cobray hammer and put that back in.
3jane.. https://usmachinegun.com/proddetail.php?prod=M11SA-0136
I too had problems with the FTF hammer. It would bind up every now and then. Still had the Cobray hammer and put that back in.
I have a few others but didn't feel like digging all them out. Here is a sample of two SWD and one marked Tooling Ent......note that the SWD one doesn't say Tooling Ent
This one has the ramped and polished bolt......haven't shot it so not sure how much less trigger slap it might have
there are 16 pics here so click image
This one has the ramped and polished bolt......haven't shot it so not sure how much less trigger slap it might have
there are 16 pics here so click image
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The top hook on the hammer catches the sear plate when the bolt goes rearward.
As long as you have the trigger pulled to the rear the hammer top hook stays engaged.
When you release the trigger from its rearward pull the hammer top hook disengages the sear plate, but the bottom hook on the back of the trigger engages the sear plate.
Max Attchisen (sp?), famous for firearms innovation and design came up with the M11/9 semi fcg. Pretty simple and works well...unless you get one with trigger slap.
MitchWerbellsGhost87
UZI Talk Life Member
Every single one of those frames was manufactured by SWD, and the flats came from tooling enterprises, whether they are marked it or not. All of the “FMJ” “LEINAD” “CFT” etc frames were SWD manufactured parts being sold under different company names for legal reasons after Wayne and Sylvia divorced. Same people, same parts, same guns… if you purchased a stripped frame from SWD (like the M12 frames) they came with no manufacturer markings under the model name.
This is like really common knowledge in the MAC world and has been for many years…. LEINAD is “Daniel” spelled backwards FFS. It’s no secret that FMJ, LEINAD, CFT, ET CETERA were all Sylvia and Wayne Daniel (SWD) selling SWD guns under different company names. This isn’t like just some random crap I made up for the purpose of spreading disinformation…
Again, don’t just take my word for it… pick up a copy of the MACMAN book and do some research, all of the info in that book regarding SWD came from Wayne himself.
I thought about buying it but I wanted to better understand it all first instead of throwing money at it. My Cobray hammer broke, so I can't use it.
It looks cast whereas the FTF bolt is supposed to be machined?
Are the hammers for the SA and FA pistols the same? Maybe the semi hammers are different?
Whether or not some flats from 3 to 4+ decades ago have certain tooling marks or not seems like a very very VERY small thing to quibble about in our little niche community.
On a totally unrelated note- sometimes I get into my car and drive to a little place I call "Let It Go-Ville".
On a totally unrelated note- sometimes I get into my car and drive to a little place I call "Let It Go-Ville".
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For a flash hider? 9mm AR crush washers work.
Really your hammer should be greased where it contacts the bolt not oiled. Oil can run off or evaporate. Firing with a dry hammer will put undue stress on it. If you fire quickly it could over stress. The normal rule is if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it. In the case of a hammer like this one grease is a must.
Really your hammer should be greased where it contacts the bolt not oiled. Oil can run off or evaporate. Firing with a dry hammer will put undue stress on it. If you fire quickly it could over stress. The normal rule is if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it. In the case of a hammer like this one grease is a must.
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look into nord lock washers.....but they will damage the finish. I use them to keep the nuts from loosening on my turbo.....never put them on a gun though
Nord
Over the past few decades I have seen people try all kinds of things to keep suppressors or barrel extensions on the Mac series of weapons threads. Some are more successful than others.
But the one thing I have seen that worked very well have been the weapons that have a pin installed in the front barrel collar that locks into whatever the barrel extension is. Think AK flashider securing pin that is in the base of the AK front sight. It locks into the flashider and keeps it indexed.
Same principle on the Mac's, but installed in the front barrel collar.
Unfortunately I dont know who could do that type of work, but I know some guys have them, so SOMEBODY somewhere has done them in the past.
But the one thing I have seen that worked very well have been the weapons that have a pin installed in the front barrel collar that locks into whatever the barrel extension is. Think AK flashider securing pin that is in the base of the AK front sight. It locks into the flashider and keeps it indexed.
Same principle on the Mac's, but installed in the front barrel collar.
Unfortunately I dont know who could do that type of work, but I know some guys have them, so SOMEBODY somewhere has done them in the past.
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