Mac grenade

thompson4433

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After every jam you do that? That is pretty anal.


I would do it if I didn't know what caused the jam

if you have a cartridge out of whack, then sure pop it out and keep shooting

but a FTE or something like that would result in a check of the bore for obstructions
 

strobro32

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Do any of you want to sell the blown up uppers? I would like the sites and trunnions for a project.
 

UZI SBR AWC

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After every jam you do that? That is pretty anal.

With an open bolt firearm.... malfunction... 1st thing you do is pull the bolt back out of way so it locks in place on the sear.. it wont go anywhere unless you pull trigger to let bolt fly forward. Then you can proceed with visual as to source of malfunction.. just remember to keep muzzle pointed down range toward target/backstop (safe direction)

I can tell you what will/can happen if you have malfunction with bolt partial forward,, you take and yank mag out,,,,, bolt can become free to finish travel forward and fire a round in wrong direction..

I had that happen, wasnt thinking, jam,,, as a USPSA shooter, I kept muzzle down range in safe direction during course of fire, failed to pull back 1st, grabbed mag and started to pull out... BANG !!
 

Dolphinvet

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I've had a squib through my M11/9 with the Lage upper, and although brass flew out the ejection port and scratched my arm, there was no damage to the gun. I did stop and make sure the barrel was clear with a cleaning rod. There was a bullet stuck and the cleaning rod pushed it out. I went back to shooting. I use a Dillon 650 press and power pistol powder. The squib was caused by an old reload using Unique. I shoot reloads through all my machine guns, including my Thompson's. I suppose you need to be able to trust your abilities to load good rounds. Lots of variable opinions here on whether to shoot reloads or not.
 

jrguns

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I shoot a lot of reloads. I trust what I do. One must remember to properly instruct someone new or with little experience with open bolt guns on what malfunctions can occur. Be sure to tell them DO NOT RACK THE BOLT BACK or PULL THE TRIGGER if something does not sound right. STOP and hold muzzle down range and ask for assistance. I even do this for semi fire too. If it is a FTF then it can always feed and there may be an accident with serious effects. I always stay close by inexperienced shooters and pay attention and will grab the gun and clear the gun myself then hand it back to avoid the dreaded explosion.

When I reload my 9mm there is now way to over charge the shell. The powder will spill out. But with this thread I am going to be more careful. I reload a lot of 147g subs. Hope I never experience this situation.
 

ctbreitwieser

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Should I switch to a different powder for my subsonics? I know titegroup is a very popular 9mm powder, and I read a lot of threads on here about people loading 3.4gr of it for their 147gr subsonics. I had 200rds of it loaded an the one that blew was the 197th. So it seems like its a good load, but maybe I just missed one somehow, I don't know. I trie using my Hornady powder measure but I was inconsistent throws from 3.1-3.7grs. I wasn't satisfied with that so that's why I weighed every charge.

I did get a chance to closer inspect the gun last night, and there is definitely some damage to my CAC9 baffles, but nothing major. And no damage to the end cap. I shook it and some bullet dust fell out with some copper pieces. So it was definitely a squib.
 

hfoster223

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One of my squibs was a PMC subsonic (new, no reload, I now stay away PMC 9mm, so far, no problems with titegroup), it appeared the round was partially loaded when ignition occurred, due to about ½ the brass remaining in the barrel and the rest being blown out the ejection port.

Question, Are you using a "factory crimp die" for your last stage of reloading. I know this subject has been beat to death, but it sure eliminates any resistance when champering a round.

I would love to see the results of a 6.8gr load of titegroup with a 147gr bullet. I’ve got a few extra barrels laying around, that might be an interesting experiment (in a very controlled environment, of course).
 

Marcus99

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Is there some type of writeup on the internet regarding open bolt SMG's and how to deal with various malfunctions? I looked and didnt see one. I have reloaded many thousands of rounds for all my firearms without any issues, but my M11/9 will be both my first MG and first open bolt. Seems like a lot of the drills I know don't apply here. Would be great to find a novice safety manual type deal that specifically deals with open bolt SMG's.
 

HK45

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Is there some type of writeup on the internet regarding open bolt SMG's and how to deal with various malfunctions? I looked and didnt see one. I have reloaded many thousands of rounds for all my firearms without any issues, but my M11/9 will be both my first MG and first open bolt. Seems like a lot of the drills I know don't apply here. Would be great to find a novice safety manual type deal that specifically deals with open bolt SMG's.

I've always been told that the first thing you do is get control of the bolt by locking it to the rear.
Then remove the magazine and clear the malfunction.

That procedure has worked very well for me.
 

nayo

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Well I'm loading 3.4gr of titegroup under Berrys 147gr RN for those loads. So I'd say its possible that 6.4gr could probably fit in there. 3.4gr doesn't take up much space.
I am pretty sure it the powder would over flow from the case it would be very hard at the least to get a 147 gr projectile in the case that would still fit in the mag, I have tried to double charge using titegroup and 147gr projectiles before and was not able to get them to the oal to fit in the mag as a experiment!! not saying it can't be done but I would be looking at other options for the failure!!! bad case and weak barrel would be my guess...
 

StooperZero

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i had a squib one time in an M60 and it blew the gas cylinder apart . FUN


Im somewhat paranoid when shit dont sound right, suppressed gun makes it harder.
 

EL DUCE

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i had a squib one time in an M60 and it blew the gas cylinder apart . FUN


Im somewhat paranoid when shit dont sound right, suppressed gun makes it harder.

Only Squib that I encountered was when me and my son were shooting pistols. I had a .45 and he was shooting a .357. We were doing shot for shot on some pie plates. He takes a shot. Then me, then him. He looks at me and says. Dad I think that I shot a dud. He said that it just didn't feel right and sound right. Sure as sh*t. There was a bullet stuck in the barrel about a 1/4 inch from the end. Proud of him that day! Not bad for a (then at the time) 11 year old.
 

softaildeluxe

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malfunction happens:
1) release finger from trigger
2) keep barrel pointed downrange as you push weapon away from your head and body.
3) put safety on
4) hold position for 60 seconds
5) view ejection port for initial assessment
6) Determine status of bolt--with safety still on, use a pressure grip on cocking knob to test for play. bolt
movement is to be controlled by you not the mechanisms of the weapon. safety on will restrict and limit play
(which is what you want at this time) and bolt will not rack.
7) work bolt slightly until you are positive there is forward tension and rear play.
8) with a controlled firm grip on cocking knob take safety off.
9) rack and hold
10) put safety on
11) maintain hold even after bolt locks
12) remove mag
13) remove any chamber obstructions

14) start bore investigation
 
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fq1234

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malfunction happens:
1) release finger from trigger
2) keep barrel pointed downrange as you push weapon away from your head and body.
3) put safety on
4) hold position for 60 seconds
5) view ejection port for initial assessment
6) Determine status of bolt--with safety still on, use a pressure grip on cocking knob to test for play. bolt
movement is to be controlled by you not the mechanisms of the weapon. safety on will restrict and limit play
(which is what you want at this time) and bolt will not rack.
7) work bolt slightly until you are positive there is forward tension and rear play.
8) with a controlled firm grip on cocking knob take safety off.
9) rack and hold
10) put safety on
11) maintain hold even after bolt locks
12) remove mag

13) start bore investigation

I disagree. On an OB gun I'd remove the mag at step 4, right after putting the safety on.
 

woodenword

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I disagree. On an OB gun I'd remove the mag at step 4, right after putting the safety on.

Shouldn't remove the mag till you lock the bolt back. Removing the mag before locking the bolt back can result in a discharge.
Bolt back, safety on, remove mag.

At least with my M11/9, you do not put the safety on till after you rack the bolt back. Doing prior will cause the bolt to jam against the sear, as it won't go down with the safety on.
 
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fq1234

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Shouldn't remove the mag till you lock the bolt back. Removing the mag before locking the bolt back can result in a discharge.
Bolt back, safety on, remove mag.

I was assuming the bolt was locked back from the blowback of the last round fired but I guess that isn't always the case. Any forward motion of the bolt "should" result in another round fired and the bolt moving rearward where hopefully the trigger would be let off and the bolt locked back.

Once the bolt is locked back, get that mag out ASAP.
 

bac0nfat

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I tell everyone who shoots, no one stands to the right of the full auto and if any kind of a jam happens, feed problem, anything, DO NOT RACK THE BOLT BACK, stop and get a cleaning rod to verify the barrel is clear.

So what happens if it's a failure to feed, with the round stuck between the bolt and the chamber, and you stick your hand in front of the muzzle to insert a cleaning rod, you insert the cleaning rod, and then the bolt somehow gets unstuck and flies home? Goodbye hand.
 
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