Micro Uzi Carbine Build

suka5168

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I guess i could bring up the threaded part by a millimeter. But the extra milling for the catch grove might cost a bit more.

Thanks for the "A". :D
So, just which ERORE were there? Dont want to be laughed at by the machinest. havent drafted since high school.
 

Brian Ski

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suka5168 said:
I guess i could bring up the threaded part by a millimeter. But the extra milling for the catch grove might cost a bit more.

Thanks for the "A". :D
So, just which ERORE were there? Dont want to be laughed at by the machinest. havent drafted since high school.

Thats what I thought abotu the extra milling for the catch... I guess it would be better to leave it alone....

I had 3 years of drafting... Quite a long time ago!!! Just very minor issues... I guess the machinist has seen a whole lot worse!!!

BTW just looking it over... It shows a couple threads on the barrel alignment lip... The lip is cut back so there are no threads on it... It would be hard to start a nut with partial threads.... If you follow...
 

suka5168

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Here is scaled drawing of what it should look like with internals.
+/- 1mm tolerance
 

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suka5168

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Need 3 measurments , I assume both sides are the same length.
Making the tooling to stamp the ribs from a flat.

These will be done in 1.6mm instead of the 1mm of the original micro/pistol. So they can be welded up to reg SMG parts kits.

From back of rear sight to start of ribs 1.600 in. Had to measure from sight because of stock welded on makes the back thicker...

Total length of rib 4.570 That is from where the radious starts from the steel... If you follow...

From the rib to the front 1.580....
 

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suka5168

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rib jig

attachment.php
 

suka5168

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Other misc. reciever pieces and homemade barrel nut.
 

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suka5168

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Need info on the Top Cover "Dimple" the one right below the front sight post.
The size and distance from the corners etc. Any info is wanted to make a jig and stamp them in.
 

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RoverDave

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1 = .758
2 = .258
3 = .249
4 = .530

The critical position is the back side of the dimple that the top cover rests against. If anything on your build causes the top cover to sit in a different spot in relation to the receiver, then you should adjust measurement #1 to match your top cover.
 

suka5168

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Final check for inner channel dimensions.

I have 34mm / 1.338" bare metal ;
with a layer of park and paint + 0.5mm/0.019" (0.25mm x 2 walls).
33.5mm/ 1.319" Total.

Wereas, some people forget "Paint has thinkness", I factored it into the build early.

:smart
 
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suka5168

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Working on the bottom of the Micro.
Please help on the measurments.
Basiclly, using the same ejector rivit hole as the referance point for GI recievers.
 

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Brian Ski

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suka5168 said:
slight bump for anyone free this weekend.

Weekend??? I wasn't sure what day it is???

How about

A 1.210

B 2.095

C 2.325 Not very accurate... My sear hole are not square.. More egg shaped.

D 4.900

E 2.800 I referenced this from the point you have figured out for the point F. I can't get a good reading from the back of my receiver because of the welded stock...

My measurements for A B and D are measured from the point you have illustraded from the bottom view... Your bottom view is not true... G should be 5.410 from the side view OR 5.470 from the bottom view. The bottom view does not include the front plate... Which is .060 thick... If you follow....
 

Brian Ski

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Not sure by your view... This area I have so crappily highlighted... Is not a hole... It has a piece of steel welded in... Follow???
 

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suka5168

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Brain, you are correct none of the point include the "front plate" (1.6mm) ; "G&F" was from your previous measurments.
The most important Point for the whole reciever is the "ejector rivet hole".
As long as "C& D& E" holds true I can get the lower to line up.

Thanks for the "weekend". been busy myself fixing things around the Store.
ice machine, fridge, cola machine, oven.
 
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