My Own FTE Problems And More...

[wmbanse]

FTE

Milk,

i had the same issue with my Golani. went through all the same troubleshooting steps. i was driving down to Georgia one weekend and paid a visit to a guy i know Jeff in mcminville, tn (probably the best Galil guy in the world....IMHO). we spent a few hours machining, replacing, and testing. towards the end of the day he grabbed a gauge and checked the ejector length. it was a bit short. so when the extractor pulled the case back there wasnt enough material there to knock it out regularly. so basically they machined mine a bit short. it was obvious once we knew where to look. when withdrawing the bolt you look at its face when the ejector is about to protrude through the bolt face. the ejector should pretty much fill the whole opening.

just an idea.

v/r
billy

 

[milkmood]

Well I ordered a new extractor kit from polygunbag.com in Ohio so we'll see what happens with that. Can you put a micrometer on a good one and tell what it mics out at from measuring the bolt slide path to the end of the ejector?

 

[loner42]

Milk,

i had the same issue with my Golani. went through all the same troubleshooting steps. i was driving down to Georgia one weekend and paid a visit to a guy i know Jeff in mcminville, tn (probably the best Galil guy in the world....IMHO). we spent a few hours machining, replacing, and testing. towards the end of the day he grabbed a gauge and checked the ejector length. it was a bit short. so when the extractor pulled the case back there wasnt enough material there to knock it out regularly. so basically they machined mine a bit short. it was obvious once we knew where to look. when withdrawing the bolt you look at its face when the ejector is about to protrude through the bolt face. the ejector should pretty much fill the whole opening.

just an idea.

v/r
billy

+1 on this. I believe this is the majority of your problem . This was a common problem with a lot of the ORF receivers. It' not an easy fix though because it will have to have some weld added to it and then recut , but that will anneal your ejector and It would have to be re heat treated by someone who knows what they're doing. Jeff possibly ? Ask him before you buy any more parts.

 

[tdc84]

Me Too

My range book reads just like this post and my dialogue with CIA goes through the same process. They even sent me a new extractor, pin and spring. Nothing worked. I finally took another look at the problem. In my case, the round actually sticks in the breech after being extracted about 1/2 and inch. After that nothing will budge it except a cleaning rod. I cleaned the breech with solvent and polished it with a good bore brush. After that I can put about 25 Wolf rounds through it or about 40 brass rounds through it before it starts sticking. Once it starts sticking, that's it for the day until I clean it again.

Like I said, I ran this by CIA. They informed me that my rifle was out of warranty but did send me the following response.

"Good Afternoon:
Without seeing the rifle, I could not offer more than an opinion, but its possible the chamber is a bit snug so it would have to be checked. It may also be possible the throat is a bit too short. This could keep cartridges with larger bullets from seating. Both of these can be corrected by a gunsmith. "

So, I am following this thread to see if someone comes up with a solution.

Thanks,

 

[Tenngalil]

The ejector lug can make a Galil/galoni act all kinds of screwy.
If yours is throwing the empties all over the place, jamming them up between the bolt carrier and rec., between the top cover and bolt carrier or certain double feeds the ejector is out.

The problem with the ejector is it's part of the timing of the rifle.
The lug is in relation to the top cover which is aligned with the chamber.
You mess up any of these and good luck.
Century likes to weld/grind on the lugs for some reason but they still haven't figured out how to do it right.
By the time i see a rifle with issues the only option is to mill out the old one and weld in a new one.

The lug should almost cause the bolt to drag when you pull the carrier back.
If not then the ejection will be weak as the case isn't getting the full kick it needs.
This causes the empty case to hit the top cover either in the wrong spot or without enough force to bounce it out and away.
Your empties should have the ding about 1/4" below the shoulder.
Steel should have a nice ding and brass should have roughly twice the ding.


tdc84- sounds like your chamber is out of spec.
Find a smith with a pull through finish reamer and clear the chamber.
Then polish it out again.

The extractor should be hard to push with your thumb- if it moves easy change the spring.
If your galoni runs like a champ with steel case but has issues with brass change the extractor- the little claws on either side are worn out.

 

[gbfirearmsales]

By the time i see a rifle with issues the only option is to mill out the old one and weld in a new one.

Jeff, are you talking about milling out and putting in new lugs, or a new ejector?

 

[Tenngalil]

Ejector- Sorry, lack of sleeps getting to me.

 

[gbfirearmsales]

Ejector- Sorry, lack of sleeps getting to me.

Man...I was going to say...If your freakin welding into place new locking lugs...sucessfully....then your inhuman...from an advanced race or something...lol

 

[tdc84]

Thanks Tenngalil...I was hoping that it was a simple fix but I am afraid that your right. I have seen reference to this problem on other forums, so I suspect it is a systemic problem that people put up with.

It sounds like it might cost more than the rifle is worth to do that...could I achieve the same thing with any kind of steel wool or some other abrasive and then a polishing? Do you know what kind of damage I could do? I am good at breaking things and occasionally fixing them.

 

[jetskrtal]

Tenngalil sent me these pics,and wanted me to post for your enjoyment

 

[GOH]

Did Jeff make these? Also, what technique is used to weld them into place? Enquiring minds want to know.

 

[Tenngalil]

The replacement ejectors are EDM'd from 4140 air hard plate.
i left .05 on the edge that fits inside the bolt for fitting/squaring up after it's welded in.
i mill out the old lug, lay the rec. on the side and mill through the rail.
i ground a 4 flute cutter undersize so the new lug has a light press fit to hold it in place.
Tig at low heat and finish machine using an alignment/timing guage i made using an IMI rec.
Double check the heat treat at the out side edge- usually ends up at 45-50 rockwell.
Takes time but the results are great- i'm getting the feel for making the empty cases do weird stuff like out and down or straight out to the right patterns.