parkerizing tommorrow--- have a question

SHooter-1

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I am going to parkerizing my nodak spud receiver & parts (many) tomorrow. First timer!!!!!! :roflmao

i read up on it , 2 different website... plus here-four articles and nice long pdf called
hobbyist small arms refinishing- done by shadow on here .

but in all the reading couldn't find the answer to this question :roflmao

can i do more than one part at time in a single tank ?
 
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cal50

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SHooter-1 said:
I am going to parkerizing my nodak spud receiver & parts (many) tomorrow. First timer!!!!!! :roflmao

i read up on it , 2 different website... plus here-four articles and nice long pdf called
hobbyist small arms refinishing- done by shadow on here .

but in all the reading couldn't find the answer to this question :roflmao

can i do more than one part at time in a single tank ?


Yes, just make sure they are not laying on top of each other (minimal contact).

Blast / clean your parts.
Rinse with water before putting into park tank.
Leave in the desired time then remove, rinse and oil.

Make sure your hands are clean and oil free. Any oil on your part the park will not take. Also make sure your solution is at the proper temp before putting parts in. If you have large / thick parts you can pre- heat them in an over before dropping in the tank (like 1919 receivers).

Piece of cake!
 

SHooter-1

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crap shit fuck damn

well i got all done and have problem with just one item !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
every thing else looks great! nice jet black - only to piece have spot issue
mag , and folder

the Nodak receiver - came looking like shit :cuss

so i did again /sand blaster- again ! , degreased it again ! s----ame result :cuss



used pre-dip black - came out all spotted with light gray being the man color - rust spots - nothing else looked like it :cuss

lamo


i will have to paint it a guess or try redo it a third time

weird rust spots after parked
 

root

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I use a toaster oven to heat all parts and don't handle by hand use something like tongs to set it in the tank..

After you park it re cook it in the oven to get rid of the moister as fast as possible ( about 250 F ) then if you are going to paint it let it cool in the oven,then paint. And re cook again.

I've had great results like this.

If you are not painting just cook the moisture off of it and spray with WD40 make sure the parts are hot enough to cook the oil. (should smoke and smell like hell) Again about 250 F this will draw the oil into the creases and such.

Get some latex/plastic/nitrile gloves @ NO TIME until you are done do you want to touch these parts with bare skin. I use cheap teflon spagetti spoons to remove and transfer the parts around...

When we did that NODAK receiver two weeks ago and over 50 different mags every thing came out show room condition.
I guess it really doesn't matter how good the receiver looked since it's out of Spec.
 

SHooter-1

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i wire hang every thing - no touchy or handle , also used powderless gloves

my nodak is in spec - but will not take a dark finish - it is streaked to hell really
weird pattern


i am going to sand blaster it again 3rd time charm ? hope there is enough of receiver left after two parks :cuss

all other 25 piece i did look great - 2 minor or 3 minor blemishes where did touch stuff or touch bottom of pot

i used cheapy midway stuff - worked great -on all piece :)
but the receiver :(
Lauer Manganese Phosphate Parkerizing
with black predip
 
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SHooter-1

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:pissed

3 rd time was not the charm - nodak receiver came out like shit again !!!!!!

half took black , some parts of none all all - wtf !

so threw in the oven and dried it then painted - as root , Surly suggested

done with it :pissed

every other part came out jet black and good looking
 

fred9x21

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Has the reciever been welded? Or heat treated? Metal that has been heat treated or welded on won't park evenly. I did a Mauser bolt that I heated and bent the bolt handle and welded it. You can see exactly where I heated and welded on it.
 

Noah Zark

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fred9x21 said:
Has the reciever been welded? Or heat treated? Metal that has been heat treated or welded on won't park evenly.


^^^ This.

When parts are heat treated, phosphating results will be spotty reflecting heat patterns in the parts. Sometimes grit blasting will remove residual oxide and the phosphate will "take" more uniformly, many times not. Sometimes acid pickling in hydrochloric acid or a blend of nitric/hydrochloric acids will pickle off residual oxides from the heating, but this is not recommended for the home refinisher. The dwell time in acid must be brief, and the subsequent rinses must be complete and effective in removing all acid. Finally, if the parts are hardened much above HRC 35 they should be baked at 350F for four hours immediately after rinsing to prevent hydrogen embrittlement of the parts.

If you tried to re-phos the receiver without stripping the existing phos finish, that will not work. For best results, you MUST strip the phosphate and reactivate the steel surface in order to re-phos a previously phosphated part.

If parts are pickled and then grit blasted (preferably steel grit, because the residual steel grit dust helps activate the surface of the part for phosphating -- same as initiating a new phosphate bath with CLEAN steel wool) it's the "best foot forward" for a uniform phosphate finish. If the parts are still spotty or striped following pickling, grit blasting, and phosphating, then it is what it is, and if aesthetics are important, a coating over the phos is the way to go.

Noah
 

SHooter-1

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British have used in past for many many years in there arsenals with excellent result a park and paint- with enamel paint , plain old enamel paint !
with excellent results.

i painted mine with high temperature enamel paint - after failure of 3rd park attempt , each time i sandblaster and clean & degrease before , and parked other parts that came out fine.

so painting of bad park was finial -out come .

painted looks good and 100% better than park by itself

Did the lower grip , receiver and folder stock with paint over park technique

i would say the ,

A thought... not sure in this is true :

Lauer Manganese Phosphate Parkerizing is lite weight solution at best - weak in solution and to be avoid - meaning after a few parts 20 or so it was done ..the solution was done , to weak to park the receiver ?

ps - not all spots miss park or black dip where aka streaking of finishing -- - welded near or close to and these nodak are not heat treated receivers.

all all it came of looking like tiger stripe camo - only black and gray before paint
 
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SHooter-1

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finished park with black enamel paint over : note topcover black park only
Picture052.jpg



Picture039.jpg


the grips are all used i picked cheap and install a rail for VFG
 
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root

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Despite your troubles gun looks pretty good!!

http://www.parkerizingkits.com/

This is the exact stuff I use I just buy the big bottles of park and use my own degreaser/greaser.

I have excellent results and I have done a lot of pieces parts so far.
 

mike@nds

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I'm sorry to hear of your exercise in frustration.

I have done about 13 of them to date and the results have been consistently good.



My Process:

degrease with scalding hot water, dawn dish soap, nylon scrub brush, blow dry

blast with 80 grit aluminum oxide @ 80psi, blow off dust

Parkerize with Palmetto Enterprises Zinc solution at 130-160 degrees

rinse in hot water tank IMMEDIATELY, remove and blow dry

dunk in WD40, pull out and place on paper towel to drip dry


If you do not rinse the parts in hot water you can get streaking because the solution dries on the surface as soon as you take it out of the tank.

Hope this helps others..................
 

leaveblank

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I have found boiling in hot water and Simple Green to be very very easy and effective and I have never had a problem with oil or grease affecting the park. Then a quick rinse in hot water, then to park tank. The real nice part is you can just leave the parts in the Simple Green until they get their time in the park tank. Just keep aluminum away from Simple Green.
 

Mongoose

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What paint are you all using? Has anyone had success with the Gun Kote from DandD sales?
 

ferretface

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I've had good results with the Parkerizing 'kits' from Shooters Solutions. The NoDak receiver came out a nice dark gray. :)
 

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