Please Help!! Ughh

Onedayu2

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Hi all...I am new to this forum and new to MAC 10 ownership.
I just got a closed bolt MAC stephensville texas 9mm.
Never fired it. When I went to pull the bolt handle, it felt "blocked" and would not pull all the way open. So I began disassembly. Forgive me here if I use the wrong terminology, when I pull the sear (I think thats what its called) all the way back, it locks under a block. When I pull the trigger, it slams forward as if it would fire. However, with the bolt in place, the "sear" will not return to that original position because its blocked by the bolt. If I let that "sear" lay in its forward position and seat the bolt on TOP of the "sear", I can pull the charging handle backwards but the weapon does not cock and dry fire.
I am completely lost with this weapon.......
PLEASE lend any assistance.....
Anthony::cuss
 

captshiess

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Maybe I'm way off with this, but sometimes my bolt wont pull completely open when my saftey isn't all the way in the fire position. I'm sure you already checked that, but I've had some scares thinking my gun was broken when it was only the safety. I don't own a m10, but that's what happens with my m-11/nine.
 

Onedayu2

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Thanks for the reply but ,after I began disassembly, I see that the safety really doesnt come into play in this situation....
 

MallNinja

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Onedayu2 said:
Thanks for the reply but ,after I began disassembly, I see that the safety really doesnt come into play in this situation....


This is a stupid as hell question, but does your cocking handle rotate? My FA MAC 10 it rotates and will lock the bolt... Im about 100% positive this isn't your problem, but hell I'll put it out there.... let the flaming begin.
 

Onedayu2

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It rotates slightly when in rearward most position in order to remove it from bolt.
I feel like a big tool....I am NO newbie to weapons...just to MACs....
What am I gonna do?!?!?!?!?!!? :eek:)
 

MallNinja

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Onedayu2 said:
It rotates slightly when in rearward most position in order to remove it from bolt.
I feel like a big tool....I am NO newbie to weapons...just to MACs....
What am I gonna do?!?!?!?!?!!? :eek:)


Wont rotate at all in the forward most position? Huh??? I have no friggin clue!

Seriously... if you cant get it working I'll 'dispose' of it for you :)


I dunno... Wish I could help! It would help if I could see it.... I guess....

I
 

Onedayu2

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I hope it dont get to that point. It crazy....I cant even find a decent manual online to see pics or instructions. The ones I have found leave alot to be desired.
 

BCG05

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Onedayu2 said:
I hope it dont get to that point. It crazy....I cant even find a decent manual online to see pics or instructions. The ones I have found leave alot to be desired.

I've got PDF's of the Mac10 & M11 manuals I can email to you. IIRC they're for the full auto's so I don't know how much they'll help. You could contact Cobray or RPB & maybe get a manual &/or help troubleshooting. HTH

Maybe take some pics to help us diagnose the problem?
 

Onedayu2

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I have seen the pdf's of the full auto version but their not quite the same AND they dont really explain how things should fit together.
I will try to post some pics to help explain things.....
Thanks....
Anthony....
 

Energizer

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what you described sounds like the safety for an open bolt gun... odd.
 

Onedayu2

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Thank you both Firefighter and Energizer....I am a L.E.O so my work schedule is all messed up. Sorry for not being back in a few days.
Anyway, I hope these pics help
Picture001.jpg

Picture002.jpg

Picture003.jpg

Picture004.jpg

Picture005.jpg

Picture006.jpg

Picture007.jpg

Picture008.jpg
 

firefighter

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Onedayu2 said:
Hi all...I am new to this forum and new to MAC 10 ownership.
I just got a closed bolt MAC stephensville texas 9mm.
Never fired it. When I went to pull the bolt handle, it felt "blocked" and would not pull all the way open. So I began disassembly. Forgive me here if I use the wrong terminology, when I pull the sear (I think thats what its called) all the way back, it locks under a block. When I pull the trigger, it slams forward as if it would fire. However, with the bolt in place, the "sear" will not return to that original position because its blocked by the bolt. If I let that "sear" lay in its forward position and seat the bolt on TOP of the "sear", I can pull the charging handle backwards but the weapon does not cock and dry fire.
I am completely lost with this weapon.......
PLEASE lend any assistance.....
Anthony::cuss
Nice pics Onedayu2!!
Ok, I must first say that I am not the most Mac educated person here, but here goes...
I think you're talking that you pull the hammer back. It does lock back.
The hammer must be in the locked back position before you install the upper. If you don't have it locked back, it will not be in the ready fire position.
Of course when you pull the trigger, the hammer releases and contacts the floating firing pin.
Note. I will never dry fire my Texas Mac again. I did one time and broke the nipple off the end of the firing pin. The Texas Mac firing pins are all but impossible to find. I had to have a machinist make me one and now I have several if anyone else needs one.
If you look at the thread I linked you to, the pictures are very similar but mine is not called the Ingram.
The hammer and trigger are a little different, but that really doesn't matter.
The bottom of your bolt is different than mine however. Yours has wider lug (the part of the bolt that strips a round out of the mag). Your bolt is set up for the dual feed mags (the more expensive ones).
You say you just bought the gun. Do you know who you bought it from? If so, did they ever have it running?
I ask that because when I got mine, I had both 9mm and .45 bolts. Your is actually a .45 gun with the magwell insert installed to convert it over to 9mm for now.
When I got my gun, I had the same issue. I tried pulling the charging handle back but couldn't. I ended up having to have the lug on the bottom of the bolt surfaced down a bit... just enough to allow the bolt to be able to slide back over the hammer.
Someone else can jump in here too. Is this maybe a problem with mismatched receivers/bolts/hammers?
There had been a few different manufacturers by the time the Texas Macs were produced.
I hope I'm not confusing you too much. I just know I had the same problem.
I checked the height of the lug from the 9mm bolt to the 45 bolt and found the lug was just too tall to allow it to pass over the hammer.
After I had it surfaced (machined down) it worked just fine.
I hope this helps you get on the way to an answer for you.
 

Onedayu2

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Thanks FF....I bought the weapon from a guy on sturmgewehr.com.
He rated it 95%. Never said anything about operational problems.
OK...so the hammer gets locked back. I install the upper "over"
the hammer. I pull the charging knob back. It does NOT lock back
(and the knob does not rotate to 'lock' the bolt open). But when
I dry fire (I know you recommended not to), the trigger moves but
I dont feel the 'snap' of the hammer releasing. Its just the trigger
moving back and forth. ALSO (and this bothers me), when I load a
round in a mag and charge the weapon, it DOES strip the top round
off and loads in the chamber, however, upon cycling the bolt (as
if fired), the round does not extract and/or eject. Will this
function correctly when actually fired?
I wanna thank ALL you guys for your help.....
 

jeeper1

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however, upon cycling the bolt (as
if fired), the round does not extract and/or eject. Will this
function correctly when actually fired?
You did not post a picture of the bolt face. There is a possibility that the bolt is for a 45 and if you try to shoot 9mm's they will not extract.
 

Onedayu2

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Nope...just checked. Barrel and boltface are both 9mm. Is it possible that w/o the expanding gases (like w/ an actual round being fired), it doesnt force the shell casing out of the chamber just enough for the extractor to grab the end of the shell? When apart, the extractor does grab the shell.
 

haterade

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You state the hammer falls from the cocked position when the trigger is pulled, with the upper receiver removed?
Remove the bolt from the upper, install the upper, and pull trigger. Does cocked hammer still fall?
If yes, then the bolt is not necessarily the culprit, but it will hold the answer. What changes when you add the bolt to the equation?

Also, do you have above problem with both loaded and unloaded weapon?


Wont extract a cartridge from the chamber?
Since you say the extractor is installed and does hold a round when manually placed under it. Is it possible your bolt is not moving far enough forward to lock-over the cartridge-lip. Not fully going into battery.
Is the extractor too stiff to climb over the case's lip? Is the recoil spring too weak to force the bolt closed on a live round? Combination of both?

Are these two symptoms related? Would the bolt not going all the way forward, keep the rear of the bolt touching the hammer and not letting it release? Mark where the bolt's exact position is (mark on the frame) when it is chambered. Then remove upper and put bolt in identical position in the upper-less frame (marked lower). Is the bolt interfering with the hammer' movement?

I don't know.
More info is needed. Take a pic of the bolt's position with a round chambered. Then report back.
 
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haterade

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More.
Is the bolt catching on the 9mm feed-lip insert, not allowing correct lockup? Is the tit of the cocking-knob catching on the bbl at any point during it's travel? Not likely, but something to check.
Don't worry. It's mechanical, and archaic at that, it can be diagnosed and fixed :)
 

haterade

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And another


Picture006.jpg


Drop a round into the bbl, with the lower receiver removed (as per your pic) Slam the bolt home with your hand with lots of energy. Is the extractor on the rim as it should be? Did it go into battery?
 

Broke

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haterade said:
Drop a round into the bbl, with the lower receiver removed (as per your pic) Slam the bolt home with your hand with lots of energy.

I'd use an empty case:jester
 
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