Safety button question

[NorincoKid]

Had some MAC stuff come in, and one of the items I'm a little stumped on.

It's a RPB M10, just the lower half. It came with the safety in a bag. The guy I got it from said it didn't work with the safety in.

I haven't quite messed with it much, but when I slip the internal part in there it does indeed seem to screw it up. With the safety inside the trigger won't "reset" when you push the trip. It resets fine without it.

I emailed the guy asking more but haven't heard back from him yet and was curious if this a common thing? Or maybe it's the wrong safety? I can take more pics.

It was part of a "lot" of several frames/lowers/parts and I'm admittedly not very familiar with the open bolt semi guns.

It almost seems like with the button/assembly installed the sear doesn't drop down enough (in fire) but there's considerable movement still on "safe" maybe it's just a bad safety, or do these need fitting?

https://i.imgur.com/mVOVZ4p.jpeg

https://imgur.com/f9KMlhV

https://imgur.com/l1iOQU0

https://imgur.com/9gCCVcR

https://imgur.com/LNhhkVX

https://imgur.com/fnRAmYu

https://i.imgur.com/mVOVZ4p.jpeg

 

[LawBob]

You’ll need the little ball bearing that sets it. on or off

Also: when the safety is on, the trigger won’t fire.

—> You only put safety on with the bolt back - so not sure how you are testing this when you don’t have an upper installed w a bolt.

You should prob junk that and get the Lage internal and external

Lage Manufacturing

www.max-11.com

Lage Manufacturing

www.max-11.com

 

[timkel]

This is the link for the Lage Ingram M10 safety

Lage Manufacturing

www.max-11.com

 

[NorincoKid]

You’ll need the little ball bearing that sets it. on or off

Also: when the safety is on, the trigger won’t fire.

—> You only put safety on with the bolt back - so not sure how you are testing this when you don’t have an upper installed w a bolt.

You should prob junk that and get the Lage internal and external

Lage Manufacturing

www.max-11.com

Lage Manufacturing

www.max-11.com

I did install it with the spring, and ball bearing.

The safety moved fully from "safe" to "fire" and back smoothly with positive clicks in it's detents.

It is difficult to know for sure without a bolt/upper if it works or not, I agree.

My main concern was that with the safety in "fire" the sear doesn't seem to move down as far (its downward movement is restricted) and with the trigger pulled all the way down (and holding it) I can't manipulate the trip lever to make the disconnector "pop" , for lack of better words.

With the safety removed, and the trigger pulled, the sear goes down further and manipulating the trip makes it "reset".

I don't know enough about these to know what "normal" is, but just in my few minutes of messing with it it "appears" that with the safety button installed, in the "fire" position, it will no longer reset and might "run away" ?

 

[skoda]

I had the same problem. The factory safety was die cast and it turned out that it was warped enough to keep the sear from moving all the way on FIRE. I could have ground it a bit but it's still a crappy die casting so I got a Lage part and never looked back.

 

[LawBob]

I did install it with the spring, and ball bearing.

The safety moved fully from "safe" to "fire" and back smoothly with positive clicks in it's detents.

It is difficult to know for sure without a bolt/upper if it works or not, I agree.

My main concern was that with the safety in "fire" the sear doesn't seem to move down as far (its downward movement is restricted) and with the trigger pulled all the way down (and holding it) I can't manipulate the trip lever to make the disconnector "pop" , for lack of better words.

With the safety removed, and the trigger pulled, the sear goes down further and manipulating the trip makes it "reset".

I don't know enough about these to know what "normal" is, but just in my few minutes of messing with it it "appears" that with the safety button installed, in the "fire" position, it will no longer reset and might "run away" ?

Well, that trip is sort of strong

 

[Gaujo]

These guns are known to have dimensional issues, and sometimes parts issues. Those OEM safeties are are a particularly cruddy part and is on of the top replaced parts on the gun, so it may be that it's just an out of spec safety. If you are an SOT or owner trying to sell it as a stripped lower, I say it's fine as is in a bag.

If you want to shoot it I'd do as above suggested and buy the upgraded Lage safety inner and outer parts that replace the OEM safety. If those Lage parts don't work, you send it in to Sam at Practicalsolutions to have your dimensional issues corrected.

 

[Gaujo]

Just saw that's a SAP gun. I believe that's a semi-auto so I know nothing about it. If it's a FA spec my above comments apply.

 

[NorincoKid]

Just saw that's a SAP gun. I believe that's a semi-auto so I know nothing about it. If it's a FA spec my above comments apply.

Yeah, not. FA.
I got a few things from a guy I have to put on consignment but don't know enough about these to know if it's safe, or OK.

Being just a lower half I don't have a real way to test it. Just table top function checking the FCG parts is about all I can do.

I'd imagine "if" it won't reset with the safety installed whoever buys it is either going to really pissed, really happy, or self-deletes themselves the first time taking it to the range when it operates differently than one would expect it too...

Figured the liability of all that was worth asking some questions.

Either list it without the safety, or start trying new/different ones to see if it's just a bad part I guess.

 

[Gaujo]

I see your point with the safety concern. Yea if you have another one you can try that's a good idea.

 

[JwestAK]

The SAP open bolt lowers are identical in the way they function to the SMG variant. The difference between the two is that the fire mode selector/sear/trip pin is captured and welded into the receiver. This is to prevent the gun from "readily" accepting a Full Auto selector. The one installed is not cut to let the trip to drop out of the way for "Auto".

On a select fire mode variant, having the safety installed is necessary to prevent overtravel of the trigger and sear. Otherwise it can cause the gun to disconnect randomly. My M10 had these symptoms as It didn't have a safety, or trip when I received it, and installing just the trip caused problems.

All that being said, in "Safe" the bottom of the sear should hit the top of the square block area on the safety. When in "Fire", it should drop fully between the block and the ramp area. Just from the picture, the front block area of that safety looks awfully large for the M10.