Semi mini uzi recoil spring vs full size?

[95sohc]

Can you cut down a full size smg recoil spring/rod to fit a semi mini? Thank you.

 

[amphibian]

Yes. That is also what Vector supplied when they ran out of Mini specific recoil spring assemblies.

 

[95sohc]

Any idea of the coil count or length

 

[amphibian]

Not sure but I ordered some of these to use in a Mini since the Mini/Micro used the same closed bolt recoil assembly.
https://iwi.us/product/uzi-pro-return-spring/
Pro looks the same to me. Will compare when I get them

 

[Jones]

If you decide to cut down a spring, once you're sure of the length and coil count, you'll want to finish the cut end for proper loading.
Old-time gunsmiths call it "flattened and ground". Here's how it's done;

Get a piece of 1/4" or thicker steel plate and a bolt the right diameter to slide inside the coil spring. Drill and tap a hole in the plate and screw in the bolt. Cutting off the bolt head gives you a guide rod perpendicular to the plate.
Next, slide the coil spring down over your guide, cut end against the plate with some pressure against it. Now heat the side of the plate away from the spring until it's red hot. At some point the heat will transfer from the plate to the end of the coils, causing the end coil to collapse. By using this "hot-plate" method instead of heating the coils with a torch, you avoid heating too much of the spring and messing up its temper.
Now that the end coil is collapsed (flattened), it's easy to grind or belt sand the end for maximum coil-end contact and to keep the cut coil from tipping and trying to bind.

The hot plate method is also good for small leaf springs or thin gauge parts you may want to heat blue. Put your flat springs, or pocket watch hands on the plate, heat from the underside and when the parts have reached the right temperature; grab the plate with a pair of pliers and tip everything into your quenching medium.

 

[95sohc]

Not sure but I ordered some of these to use in a Mini since the Mini/Micro used the same closed bolt recoil assembly.
https://iwi.us/product/uzi-pro-return-spring/
Pro looks the same to me. Will compare when I get them

Definitely let me know I wouldn't mind getting a few extra.

 

[95sohc]

If you decide to cut down a spring, once you're sure of the length and coil count, you'll want to finish the cut end for proper loading.
Old-time gunsmiths call it "flattened and ground". Here's how it's done;

Get a piece of 1/4" or thicker steel plate and a bolt the right diameter to slide inside the coil spring. Drill and tap a hole in the plate and screw in the bolt. Cutting off the bolt head gives you a guide rod perpendicular to the plate.
Next, slide the coil spring down over your guide, cut end against the plate with some pressure against it. Now heat the side of the plate away from the spring until it's red hot. At some point the heat will transfer from the plate to the end of the coils, causing the end coil to collapse. By using this "hot-plate" method instead of heating the coils with a torch, you avoid heating too much of the spring and messing up its temper.
Now that the end coil is collapsed (flattened), it's easy to grind or belt sand the end for maximum coil-end contact and to keep the cut coil from tipping and trying to bind.

The hot plate method is also good for small leaf springs or thin gauge parts you may want to heat blue. Put your flat springs, or pocket watch hands on the plate, heat from the underside and when the parts have reached the right temperature; grab the plate with a pair of pliers and tip everything into your quenching medium.

Reqlly good information. Thank you. I was going to try and make a custom rod out of 304 and a c clip on the bolt side as it's not under tension when installed.

 

[Jones]

I've burnt enough springs while trying to heat just the end coil with a torch to really like the hot plate method. I grab the cool end of the spring with a gloved hand and press down to provide enough pressure to cause the hot coil to collapse. Once it's laid down, pull it away from the heat so only the end coil is flattened.
I try to go for the simplest method. Making up the fixture seems like an extra step but you get repeatable results; and you can put several guide pins on the same plate for different sized springs.

304 is a good choice for a guide rod. You might also consider drill rod if your guide rod, pin, whatever needs to be blued or parkerized.