Six - AK-47s Built Saturday...
- Thread starter SubGunFan
- Start date
Vegas SMG
UZI Talk Life Member,
It's interesting that you decided against building one in 5.45 X 39 with the surplus ammo so cheap at this time. Any reason why? Centerfire Systems offers these already built for less than $350.00 complete with sling, magazine, cleaning kits, etc. So I can only assume the parts kits are very cheap.
How times have changed. I paid about as much for my factory Chicom AK as the parts kits are selling for now.
How times have changed. I paid about as much for my factory Chicom AK as the parts kits are selling for now.
I also used U drive screws. I intended to use #10-32 screws but when the tap fell into the holes I decided to order U drive screws and hammer them in. I've shot about 250 rounds and they are holding in place. If it wasn't for the high ammo prices I would probably have shot 1000 rounds.
JeffJWC
Well-known member
Thats not really a tantal, other than the stock looks similiar.. you used a romanian s/f stock, and the tantal uses a polish one, which has a slightly different shaped loop. Tha tantal is not just a different caliber, it also uses a different gas block, handguard retainer, handguard retaining latch, rear trunion, and the muzzle brake used on the polish tantals are one of the most unique of all AK's. ( I happen to be a seriously addicted AK builder)
I only use rivets for the sake of originality though. When I first started I was tempted to use screws, but then I ended up doing it with the modified bolt cutters and it worked quite well. Then I had a buddy build me a jig and now I can set rivets like a pro in no time flat. All you need is a $100 12 ton pres from Harbor Freight. Anyhow, the jig is incredibly easy to build too. I can post schematics of it if anyone is interested. then all you need is a triggerguard jig, and you are set.
I just finished a Russian Afghan Era AK74s, im just waiting on the gunkote from Brownells. I got russian wood from akforum.net, which I was happy to find. Thats what happens when you get into ak building, you start caring about how they look, and you start getting the drop cases, the matchgin mag pouches, the specific country of origin of course. I also just finished riveting a bulgarian AK74U krinkov, Im going to turn that one into a russian clone as well. Next one I plan on doing is a 1976 russian AKMS, and then a Yugo M70 u/f battlefield pickup. Then, im doing the Hungarian milled build...I cant stop
I only use rivets for the sake of originality though. When I first started I was tempted to use screws, but then I ended up doing it with the modified bolt cutters and it worked quite well. Then I had a buddy build me a jig and now I can set rivets like a pro in no time flat. All you need is a $100 12 ton pres from Harbor Freight. Anyhow, the jig is incredibly easy to build too. I can post schematics of it if anyone is interested. then all you need is a triggerguard jig, and you are set.
I just finished a Russian Afghan Era AK74s, im just waiting on the gunkote from Brownells. I got russian wood from akforum.net, which I was happy to find. Thats what happens when you get into ak building, you start caring about how they look, and you start getting the drop cases, the matchgin mag pouches, the specific country of origin of course. I also just finished riveting a bulgarian AK74U krinkov, Im going to turn that one into a russian clone as well. Next one I plan on doing is a 1976 russian AKMS, and then a Yugo M70 u/f battlefield pickup. Then, im doing the Hungarian milled build...I cant stop
JeffJWC
Well-known member
Check out Ohiorapidfire.com, they have the bulgarian AK74s kits, with the russian style s/f stocks. The bulgarians are the ones to use for russian AK74 clones
unless you want to do an AK47 russian clone, then you can use anybody, but the romanians are the cheapest. All youd need is to get the russian handguard set, and stock, and gas block depending on the year you want to recreate. To keep costs down Its best to just get the russian handguards, and get a Birch wood stock from Ironwood.com, and stain the wood with shellac to give it the russian look. Or use an underfolder. And, gunbroker has bakelite russian pistol grips for sale.
unless you want to do an AK47 russian clone, then you can use anybody, but the romanians are the cheapest. All youd need is to get the russian handguard set, and stock, and gas block depending on the year you want to recreate. To keep costs down Its best to just get the russian handguards, and get a Birch wood stock from Ironwood.com, and stain the wood with shellac to give it the russian look. Or use an underfolder. And, gunbroker has bakelite russian pistol grips for sale.
JeffJWC
Well-known member
If anyone is interested in Real Russian furniture, there is a guy on akforum.net who just got back from being stationed in Germany, and he brough back tons of russian furniture, the square swelled, and smaller swelled kind, all different shades. I forogt to mention, doing an East german clone is a really cheap one too, just get a $100 romy kit, and buy the $40 east german furniture, and you are set. You can even put the german fire selector marks, and sight leaf.
SubGunFan
UZI Talk Life Member
WOW Jeff.......... Thanks for all the great info.
Yes, PLEASE post details (pics) of your rivet jigs (both trunnion and trigger guard). Bending flats and riveting are our next steps up in the AK Building World..... We currently have a machinist building us a flat bending jig (at least parts of it). We bought a spot welder and some bolt cutters from Harbor Freight.
Jeff, question for you (and any other AK flats builders). To save from having to modify the spot welder, we are thinking of welding the rails in before bending. We understand clearances will have to be allowed for in the bending jig, but that doesn't appear to be a problem. My question(s) is... Is this a major NO-NO due to other problems? Have any of you tried this method?
Thanks in advance,
SubGunFan
.
Yes, PLEASE post details (pics) of your rivet jigs (both trunnion and trigger guard). Bending flats and riveting are our next steps up in the AK Building World..... We currently have a machinist building us a flat bending jig (at least parts of it). We bought a spot welder and some bolt cutters from Harbor Freight.
Jeff, question for you (and any other AK flats builders). To save from having to modify the spot welder, we are thinking of welding the rails in before bending. We understand clearances will have to be allowed for in the bending jig, but that doesn't appear to be a problem. My question(s) is... Is this a major NO-NO due to other problems? Have any of you tried this method?
Thanks in advance,
SubGunFan
.
texasvwnut said:
The 92 with the top cover is not that bad taking the barrel out putting it back in you have to be a little careful with the cover still in place. Are you using the penny and air hammer trick for taking the barrels out?
Boomer1961
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2007
- Messages
- 90
What about all those U-Drive build and it fell apart stories.
At the AK forum I think it was a couple of years ago that the first fella came up with this idea and espoused its virtues for quite some time until at a shoot his front trunnion popped out then he preached against it.
Can I ask where you got this idea?
Has something changed on this topic?
For the safe/closet/underbed queen that gets shot only once or twice I think this might be OK but use seems to be a killer of this type of build.
also to quote
Read of a failure on the SurplusRifle forum. Rear trunnion came out; dude's wrist got mangled by the bolt carrier. Not a pretty sight. Blood, surgery, physical therapy, etc.
I think I would stick to as originally designed with rivets, except as I said for the safe queen that really does not get shot or resold to an unsuspecting victim who does not know better.
The various AK forums have discussed this topic to death and have maybe a half dozen old war stories of mayhem and scores who talk about how things loosened up and eventually fell apart.
GOOD LUCK!
At the AK forum I think it was a couple of years ago that the first fella came up with this idea and espoused its virtues for quite some time until at a shoot his front trunnion popped out then he preached against it.
Can I ask where you got this idea?
Has something changed on this topic?
For the safe/closet/underbed queen that gets shot only once or twice I think this might be OK but use seems to be a killer of this type of build.
also to quote
Read of a failure on the SurplusRifle forum. Rear trunnion came out; dude's wrist got mangled by the bolt carrier. Not a pretty sight. Blood, surgery, physical therapy, etc.
I think I would stick to as originally designed with rivets, except as I said for the safe queen that really does not get shot or resold to an unsuspecting victim who does not know better.
The various AK forums have discussed this topic to death and have maybe a half dozen old war stories of mayhem and scores who talk about how things loosened up and eventually fell apart.
GOOD LUCK!
SubGunFan
UZI Talk Life Member
An update on our U-drive AK builds...................
The last one built that night (late) did have the U-drives come loose (not out, just loose). We determined the U-drives were ground too short and the holes were not deep enough. That gun has been repaired and so far (60rds) is holding up fine.
My personal "Custom AK" is holding up fine after about 400rds. The other AKs are all holding up fine, but have been fired much less.
Again, I state here, I am NOT saying U-drives are the total answer (best things to use), but are an alternative to rivets being easier to work with. We went with U-drives for our first builds because we had limited shop equipment. We now have purchased additional equipment (spot welder, bolt cutters) and are having a flat bending jig made by a machinist. One of the guys has made rivets setting punches and bucking bars. And the guy did a GREAT job on modifying the bolt cutter to set front trunnion rivets.
Our future builds will mainly be with rivets.
.
The last one built that night (late) did have the U-drives come loose (not out, just loose). We determined the U-drives were ground too short and the holes were not deep enough. That gun has been repaired and so far (60rds) is holding up fine.
My personal "Custom AK" is holding up fine after about 400rds. The other AKs are all holding up fine, but have been fired much less.
Again, I state here, I am NOT saying U-drives are the total answer (best things to use), but are an alternative to rivets being easier to work with. We went with U-drives for our first builds because we had limited shop equipment. We now have purchased additional equipment (spot welder, bolt cutters) and are having a flat bending jig made by a machinist. One of the guys has made rivets setting punches and bucking bars. And the guy did a GREAT job on modifying the bolt cutter to set front trunnion rivets.
Our future builds will mainly be with rivets.
.
Boomer1961
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2007
- Messages
- 90
SubGunFan said:
As an FYI
This was tried with loctite to stop the loosening, only thing people like to shoot allot with the AK and when loctite gets hot it looses its adhesion properties.
If ya insist on U-Bolts use copious amounts of JB-weld, that seems to have had the most success according to the AK forums.
Anyone attempting this type of build please go to the AK forums and look around there to learn for yourself.
As I said for a safe queen build this should be fine, and it should shoot ok for a while, and it is easy. Think of it like a imitation firearm that could actually go bang if you wanted it to.
IF ya go to the ak forums you will see the debates about welded versus screw versus U-bolt versus rivet. Most convincing argument is that the Soviets and allies tried them all and decided rivets were best. They even reinvestigated when they went AK-74 and spent lots of money looking into screw and welded builds and decided rivet builds were best.
I suggest reading about this at the ak forums.
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!:angel
My U drive screws have held but I had to use size #12 instead of #10 U screws because I drilled #10 clearance holes for them. My Yugo looks like it has oversize rivets and if they don't work out then I'll be the first to let everyone know about it so they repeat the same mistake. The tutorial on AR15.com shows how to use them. The guys who wrote the tutorial fired thousands of rounds through their U drive built AKs. I used them because of limited shop equipment and speed of assembly.
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