Super Safety Review

[strobro32]

Make sure you have a pressure plug in front of the buffer. That was the last issue for me. The assembly needs to be fully pressed against the barrel with no movement of the kit.

I have not needed any special springs or adjustable weights.

I use the CMMG 22 kit, solid CMMG FA Stainless weight (1.25oz) and the BB adjustable SS trip. Pressure plug, 9" dedicated barrel,

 

[skoda]

Does the collar use a ball and spring detent to hold the collar to the barrel? A set screw to hold it to the barrel? That might affect the dynamics of the bolt assembly compared to the insert type assembly. I'm an engineer and have seen some crazy things happening in vibration or dynamic movements.

Mak91, I have the Bore Buddy adjustable trip. I'm using an Anderson lower that I have shot with 5.56 with a GMR super safety with the exact same fire control parts with no problem. The bolt moves fine on the CMMG assembly. I just bought it from them. I am using the BB buffer tube plug as well.

Where should I adjust the trip screw to? All the way in or ????

 

[strobro32]

I've had barrel collars that use ball detents and set screws. I tried to use the set screw from BB but I did not trust it. I even used a longer set screw and drilled a a deeper divot in the barrel extension for it to sit. I eventually abandoned that and now I just use the pressure plug.

I found the trip adjustment screw locking nut would loosen so I removed the bolt.

 

[mak91]

Does the collar use a ball and spring detent to hold the collar to the barrel? A set screw to hold it to the barrel? That might affect the dynamics of the bolt assembly compared to the insert type assembly. I'm an engineer and have seen some crazy things happening in vibration or dynamic movements.

Mak91, I have the Bore Buddy adjustable trip. I'm using an Anderson lower that I have shot with 5.56 with a GMR super safety with the exact same fire control parts with no problem. The bolt moves fine on the CMMG assembly. I just bought it from them. I am using the BB buffer tube plug as well.

Where should I adjust the trip screw to? All the way in or ????

I didn't have to adjust the trip screw it worked as it arrived.

 

[ScottinTexas]

I only have the CMMG collars and they have a ball and spring detent in the collar that snaps into a matching groove machined around the stub of the dedicated barrel that fits inside the collar.

It’s simple, effective and never needs adjustment and would seem to be a far better design than a collar using a setscrew.

The point of the collar and dedicated barrel design is to lock the bolt assembly to the barrel so it can’t bounce out of the chamber just before the hammer falls on the firing pin. When it bounces out, The insert is no longer seated all the way, and too much of the hammer energy is expended to reseat the insert, with the result being light strikes and failure to ignite.

It’s the speed of full auto and the small amount of energy in the .22lr that combine to create this issue that doesn’t exist really in semiauto.

I’m no expert, but I do have scar tissue. My opinion is that the CMMG dedicated barrel and collar combination eliminates so much wasted energy that it makes other minor frictional or alignment issues no longer significant.

But I have no experience with the super safety in this application, full disclosure. My build is ‘complete’ but untested. It’s Anderson upper and lower, CMMG 9” barrel and collar combination, Borebuddy weight and trip with plug, DNT SS, steel detent and trigger.

 

[strobro32]

Just remember that many of the SS makers are over cutting the round corner of the trigger. If it works.... and then doesn't work, the trigger may be over cut. Even the trigger cutting jigs allow for over cutting. I recommend cutting your own trigger and slowly rounding that corner until the cam slides in under the installed trigger. Be sure to polish the corner of the trigger so it does not grind away the cam.

 

[skoda]

Mak91 - Thanks for that info

ScottinTX - What you are saying makes a lot of sense. While a small movement, the bolt assy is pretty heavy and having to move it a hair's width is going to suck a lot out of the hammer spring. Looks like CMMG is going to get more of my money. Damn.

Strobro32 - My trigger is pretty tight. I ground it myself and polished it. I used the 3D printed guide but ground less than it suggested with the idea that I can always take more off. I had to go back once and take a little but that was it. It runs fantastic with the 5.56 upper. I did have to grind the trip lever several times to not drag on the 5.56 bolt carrier. Of course the 22LR bolt is totally different but I haven't gotten far enough to see if that will be an issue. Cycling by hand it doesn't seem to be.

 

[strobro32]

For anybody new to this, I posted about grinding the lever too but the new SOP is to grind the bottom of the upper. All SS makers are recommending this now. I think I posted updated details on the AS Designs Trouble Shooting link in Post #1.

 

[strobro32]

Like to nerd out on safety cam function in relation to FRTs? It could help to pick the best FRTs.

 

[medphys]

Like to nerd out on safety cam function in relation to FRTs? It could help to pick the best FRTs.

Worth every minute.

 

[ScottinTexas]

Spoiler: he likes the dimensions of the Hoffman SS.

 

[deadduck]

Spoiler: he likes the dimensions of the Hoffman SS.

OH GREAT!
I haven’t seen it yet.
You just ruined the whole movie for me.
I hope it has a happy ending.

 

[ScottinTexas]

OH GREAT!
I haven’t seen it yet.
You just ruined the whole movie for me.
I hope it has a happy ending.

At the end he realizes he is dead and the only people who can see him are BATF.

Oopsies.

 

[skoda]

I wanted to give some feedback to those that helped me. I got a dedicated 16 inch 22LR barrel and collar from RTB but they seem to be CMMG parts. I put it together and I still had the same problem of the hammer not latching when cycling by hand. My hammer was ground down a bit so I replaced that and still no luck. I then took the trigger out and saw that the GMR super safety had worn a small concave radius into the convex radius that is on the left rear of the trigger. Kinda weird and unexpected especially with the low round count from shooting 5.56 that I had on the super safety (I got the pre-ground trigger from SkoPrints, I bought their SS first and when the lever broke I put the GMR lever and selector in but left the 'SkoPrints' trigger in). Sorry but I can't get a decent photo of it. Has anyone seen this kind of wear on the back of the trigger?

I replaced the trigger and then the hammer started latching on the sear. Looks like Strobro32 was right, the trigger can have too much material removed. Thank you.

I agree that the dedicated barrel and collar are the way to go over a 5.56 barrel and chamber insert, it's a cleaner setup. I did have to adjust the BB trip with the screw about 1/4" out from the original position.

It runs great with 40 grain CCI mini mags, not so much with some Winchester and Aguilla that I had laying around. I'm probably getting about 1300 RPM, maybe more, and I can hardly feel the trigger resetting. I was running a suppressor on the barrel.

Now onto the TX22.................

 

[ScottinTexas]

Good info.

I’ve given up on all Winchester .22LR and Federal Automatch; they both are unreliable in almost any of my .22 guns. The problem is either the primer compound or too thick of a case along the rim. Light strikes are common but so are deep firing pin indentations with h no ignition.

 

[KickStand]

Good info.

I’ve given up on all Winchester .22LR and Federal Automatch; they both are unreliable in almost any of my .22 guns. The problem is either the primer compound or too thick of a case along the rim. Light strikes are common but so are deep firing pin indentations with h no ignition.

The post Cov*d AutoMatch is trash and won’t run in my Lage 22 kit. The older AutoMatch worked great.
I was pleasantly surprised to see that it worked in the new S&W 76 / MK760 22LR sub caliber conversion kit though.

 

[root]

CCI has been very very reliable for me the last 8-10 years.
I've put 400 rnds through the tx22 since I got it with only one dud and 100% reliability without the can and 100% with 450 grns added for the can.
Same with the other 22 guns reliability & consistancy have been as good as centerfire ammo.
I can't say that about other brands that I have left over that I an slowly using up in revolvers.

 

[strobro32]

I recently used my SS CMMG 22 Kit for another project so I bought a new 22 kit for the SS. It works pretty good but not as reliable as my old kit. Then I remembered that the old kit was not as reliable at the start. Like the old Lage 22 kits, they grow more reliable with use.

 

[ScottinTexas]

I use a Dremel and Flitz on the top and bottom of the stainless guide rails and the collar feed ramp. This tends to create a mirror finish on those surfaces that I figure can only help.

 

[Alaska_Shooter]

FRT discussions are all mixed in various threads so I’m not sure which one to post in anymore 🤣

A video of a 1919 FRT popped up on FB today. Things are getting spicy with that and also a 249 FRT in design

It seems like there are more Lage 22 kit sales offers than there used to be. I wonder if the new Practical Solutions uppers are contributing to this or maybe FRT/SS options. We definitely live in interesting times