TX22 Competiton with can and FRT

mattnh

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Thinking about getting a TX22 with FRT
and want to run with a can.

If I get a TX22 Competion with red-dot will it run without any extra weight on the slide?


What all do I need?
 

mattnh

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Looks like the red dot mounts to the barrel making the slide even lighter so I would think you'd need more weight.

Yeah, agree it looks like the ref-dot doesn’t reciprocate. I was wondering these even ran without a can…. I saw the TX22 T.O.R.O. has
a rail on the slide, but I’ve read some stuff where people said that model was “most unreliable gun I’ve ever owened!?!”

 

Alaska_Shooter

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My TX22 TORO FRT runs great! I haven’t seen many (any?) complaints about them online with FRTs.

Mine needed weight (steel striker housing) to run with a can. It runs great with supers but I still need to figure out how to make it work with subs


My buddy has a comp model. It works with the FRT and no can. It didn’t work with a can so it probably needs weight added
 

Alaska_Shooter

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34 grams is the weight of both metal pieces in total. It’s possible to use just half metal and half steel. Each metal half weighs around 17 grams compared to 2 grams or so for the plastic halves
 

Caverpete

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I got mine from here:

https://www.701boomsticks.com/

Many of the FRT sellers are starting to sell them as well
Thanks for that! I have the stainless inserts on the way. My expedient method of adding 34g to the slide was to put a 1/8” lead sheet under the optic plate on my TORO TX22 but the metal inserts are a more elegant solution. I don’t have a can but I’ll say the pistol runs better when it’s a bit slower than without the weight. What an awesome thing! I end each day with a 22 rnd mag dump that leaves a smile on my face all evening 😁
 

strobro32

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I found proof that a steel striker housing was not really needed unless you want the weight for suppressors. In fact the OEM disconnector has a sharp edge on one side and causes more wear than my FRT. Even the FFT FRT taller hump creates more wear.

54894417380_ba2059dc70_c.jpg
 

strobro32

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I ordered a CNC striker housing from Stark80 $65. I will report back when I see it.

 

strobro32

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Oh man it looks like it's only one side. Didn't catch that. Crap. Sent them a question.
 

skoda

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I'm over 2000 with the StroBro32 FRT and I'm not seeing any further wear than from the first 200 rounds or so on my plastic striker housing. I do grease it up pretty well and go easy on the trigger pressure which helps. I think that it's his ramp angle which you can feel hand cycling the slide with trigger pressure. There is no abrupt forward movement and it seems to stop about the point of trigger reset and not further. This would minimize the wear of the housing.
 

strobro32

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So far I've seen 5 of my FRTs damages by the sintered SS striker housings. The reliability goes down with those housings and my FRT as well. I do not recommend their use for wear, reliability or adding weight with my FRT . mak90's 1.39 oz charging handle/rate reducer seems to be the best options for both running suppressors and reliability, at least for a non-optic slide.

I think these guns need to be tuned with various weight for the accessories and ammo. Every owner will have to find their balance. It seems that the makers of the steel housings are starting to add their hardened steel FRTs to compensate for the wear. I really though we would have select fire FRT slides before that happened.
 

Caverpete

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With a TORO model you can at least add a brass/copper/steel/SS plate under the optic. This brass plate with screws weighs close to 32g in addition to the 17g stainless insert that is still inside the slide (not the one that beats up the frt). I don’t have a can yet but I think these pistols run a bit better when they’re slowed down some. Also, I notice that without the safety in place, that 1/8” hole would make a nice attachment point for a brace or something 😄
 

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strobro32

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I have heard that if you radius the striker housing corner next to the striker block it will not damage the 304 SS FRTs. Will test soon to confirm.
 

Caverpete

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I have heard that if you radius the striker housing corner next to the striker block it will not damage the 304 SS FRTs. Will test soon to confirm.
I meant to do this already but I assumed it would still beat up the FRT. I’ll have to try it since I spent $ on it. Also, it feels like a luxury to have two TX22’s with FRT’s. One with weights and the other unaltered that seems to run anything I put in it. I broke into the 10 year old stash of Wal Mart 550 rnd value paks (copper plated 40 grain HP). It’ll take a while to run thru 15K rnds 😄
 

medphys

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I have heard that if you radius the striker housing corner next to the striker block it will not damage the 304 SS FRTs. Will test soon to confirm.
Possibly, but it's still going to wear eventually.

I tried mine this afternoon with no luck suppressed, but it ran great and noticeably slower with the sintered striker housing.

However, after less than 100 rounds, my StrobroFRT looks like this:


I think I'm going to stick with unsuppressed since I don't really have the time to mod and troubleshoot much anymore. Using the non-contact half of the stainless striker housing and a steel back plate, might be just the ticket for rate reduction & reliability.
 

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