After over 6K rounds it has stopped working with the suppressor but still works without it. Nothing has changed ammo wise . I’ll have to try and weight it next time out.
TX22 FRTs
- Thread starter strobro32
- Start date
The can itself has over 30K round through it since 2010 all is well with the internals
I just cleaned my Spectre2 and Sparrow using the turbo dip (50/50 hydrogen peroxide and vinegar in a heated ultrasonic cleaner) and they look new. Both lost a few ozs each. Been considering getting aluminum cans for the TX22s but I would miss the turbo dip cleaning ease.
Had to run my OG Spectre through 3x on the dip two weeks ago.
I just soak it though no fancy stuff.
By far the hardest to get apart yet even with the pusher tool thanks to the tx22.
Arch if you clean it think it will be light enough to cycle again?
I just soak it though no fancy stuff.
By far the hardest to get apart yet even with the pusher tool thanks to the tx22.
Arch if you clean it think it will be light enough to cycle again?
Replying to myself again. Once I got to looking I could see the problem. The stainless insert that interacts with the frt is beating the crap out of the frt. The flattening and mushrooming of the frt was the likely cause of the malfunctions because once I filed and polished Strobro’s frt back into shape it worked perfectly… without the offending stainless insert. I at least was able to use the other stainless insert (16.88 g) for an internal weight. Anybody else who got these will have the same result, I’m certain of it. My advice to anyone making these inserts is to use brass or bronze or anything softer than the frt.
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Thank you for that valuable input. Definitely something to watch out for when using a replacement insert.
Did you see any wear on the metal insert from the FRT? If not you might consider hitting it with a small file to round off the corner so it looks like a plastic one after a couple thousand rounds and then grease it up.
Did you see any wear on the metal insert from the FRT? If not you might consider hitting it with a small file to round off the corner so it looks like a plastic one after a couple thousand rounds and then grease it up.
Yah, I'd try rounding it just a little. You're correct on using a different material. Brass would be a logical place to start because it's fairly cheap and easy to machine. You might want to pass you experience to the place that made the insert. And then get them to join and sponsor this forum!!
I just got a stainless insert from McClane Defense. It weighs 34.47 grams. It's like 100 grit sand paper on every surface. The striker does not slide in the striker housing very smoothly. I contacted him and he said it must have not been finished but it looks like every picture on his site. He wants me to send it back. I'm going to test with the OEM disconnector as well as the FRT first, as is. I'm not sure if I want to attempt to finish it or send it back. It was stupid expensive, like $135 shipped. Very disappointing.
Stark80 offered a CNC 1/2 housing for testing. He sent me I USPS tracking number but it has not been shipped since the shipping label was created November 8. Maybe he forgot.
Stark80 offered a CNC 1/2 housing for testing. He sent me I USPS tracking number but it has not been shipped since the shipping label was created November 8. Maybe he forgot.
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The internals I had Robar applied many years ago they more or less wipe off. All I use a thin layer of copper anti seize on all of it there is not much in the can if any debris
Got got back from testing the McClane Defense SS Striker housing this morning. I stopped before I hit 100 rounds. It was pure frustration. I tested it without modifying it. It had problems with the slide returning with the FRT and the OEM disconnector. I striker would barely slide and not reset. So I did some light filing and sanding down to 600 grit. It worked better but still had a considerable amount of failures with both the OEM disconnector and my FRT. I just got through filing the slots the striker tabs slide. Those slots were rough. It really needed more smoothing. I'll test tomorrow.
Good find.
He's got about 2 oz in the red dot alone. I would just JB weld some lead to the G1 slide since the red dot is not functional.
The ROF is 1378 RPM with CCI MM and 1391 RPM with CCI Stangers.
He's got about 2 oz in the red dot alone. I would just JB weld some lead to the G1 slide since the red dot is not functional.
The ROF is 1378 RPM with CCI MM and 1391 RPM with CCI Stangers.
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I tested a couple of the Galloway Precision +9 mag extension kits today. They go on a 16 rnd mag body and initially, the kit springs are a couple of inches longer than the Taurus 16 rnd springs. I wish I had measured them because once they have been compressed twice they are shorter than the Taurus springs and sort of kinked up. Not only that but with the Galloway springs the mags only hold 24 rnds (instead of the promised 25 rnds) and the slide does not stay open after the last shot. I then switched over to the stock 16 rnd Taurus springs and I could put 25 in the mag but the slide would not stay open after the last shot. I then snipped off 2.5” of the Galloway spring and added it underneath the Taurus spring. I could still get 25 in the mag and the slide stays open after the last shot. Conclusion: Galloway has a decent product in the extension but coupled with poor quality springs. They are $28.50 ea with free shipping so are a bit pricey for what you get. I’m sure you guys with 3D printers could do better. This product would likely work great with Taurus springs from one of their 22 rnd mags.
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I have 3 people who reported damage to my 304 SS FRTs. All were using the sintered SS striker housings from 701Boomskicks, TacticalRN and McCane Defense Co.
If you have prurchased a SS striker housing from one them, please keep an eye on the FRT. All of the housings were rough and needed fitting. All had the contact points smoothed/polished before use and left dents or flat spots on the FRT just like Carverpete's.
I'm going to advise that these housings not be used with the FRTs I sell. The housings are much harder than the 304 SS FRTs and will wear them easily.
If you have prurchased a SS striker housing from one them, please keep an eye on the FRT. All of the housings were rough and needed fitting. All had the contact points smoothed/polished before use and left dents or flat spots on the FRT just like Carverpete's.
I'm going to advise that these housings not be used with the FRTs I sell. The housings are much harder than the 304 SS FRTs and will wear them easily.
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