Who can build a mini uzi reciever?
- Thread starter 95sohc
- Start date
Rather than cut up a full-size, you might consider getting the front and rear sheet metal from a demil. That'll give you the front and rear sights and trunnion. Trim up the sheet metal ends and have a smith TIG them onto a Mini repair section that you can find on GB.
You'll find that shortening the bolt is a problem i.e. ejection port ends up open (somewhat unsupported) at the front whereas finding a mini bolt though pricey, saves a lot of grief in the long run.
Then there's finding a smith willing to do it. Do your homework to make sure you're not going to end up with something that ain't exactly legit.
You'll find that shortening the bolt is a problem i.e. ejection port ends up open (somewhat unsupported) at the front whereas finding a mini bolt though pricey, saves a lot of grief in the long run.
Then there's finding a smith willing to do it. Do your homework to make sure you're not going to end up with something that ain't exactly legit.
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Jigs are handy and necessary for some jobs but I've used a block of oak cut to fit inside as an alignment tool. Welding temps can char the wood but a little extra carbon won't affect temper as these things are made of 1018 mild steel.
If available, copper makes a good weld back and won't stick or get welded in place.
For alignment; a piece of round stock turned to the right dimensions, stuffed into the trunnion and picking up the bolt face sets both the trunnion and the feed ramp in their proper locations. Copper foil around the bolt will protect it while you weld.
Factories use jigs and fixtures but it's mostly to aid in keeping up production and maintain tolerances sufficient for interchangeability of parts.
Otherwise, Uzis; like AKs, Stens, Grease guns, etc. are built a little "sloppy" to be able to operate in the field by shooters who may not be the best at maintenance and upkeep of their weapon while in jungle to desert conditions. Reliability is foremost and if you can hit your target too, even better.
After surviving a firefight or two, you'll know that taking your time with well-placed shots ain't where it's at. Sometimes it boils down to making the other guys keep their heads down while you make a break for it.
It's good to err on the side of caution so practicing on some sheet metal scrap can give you "a feel" for the job before you start on the good stuff.
Hope this makes sense and gives you a mini that's reliable and fun to shoot.
.
If available, copper makes a good weld back and won't stick or get welded in place.
For alignment; a piece of round stock turned to the right dimensions, stuffed into the trunnion and picking up the bolt face sets both the trunnion and the feed ramp in their proper locations. Copper foil around the bolt will protect it while you weld.
Factories use jigs and fixtures but it's mostly to aid in keeping up production and maintain tolerances sufficient for interchangeability of parts.
Otherwise, Uzis; like AKs, Stens, Grease guns, etc. are built a little "sloppy" to be able to operate in the field by shooters who may not be the best at maintenance and upkeep of their weapon while in jungle to desert conditions. Reliability is foremost and if you can hit your target too, even better.
After surviving a firefight or two, you'll know that taking your time with well-placed shots ain't where it's at. Sometimes it boils down to making the other guys keep their heads down while you make a break for it.
It's good to err on the side of caution so practicing on some sheet metal scrap can give you "a feel" for the job before you start on the good stuff.
Hope this makes sense and gives you a mini that's reliable and fun to shoot.
.
trilogymac
UZI Talk Supporter
Jones,
If memory serves me, there was an ex IMI engineer in Israeli who was making minis from full size guns. The full size bolts were cut, leaving the port open. To my knowledge there weren't any issues with this type of conversion. There is a reference to this bolt conversion in Daves book.
If memory serves me, there was an ex IMI engineer in Israeli who was making minis from full size guns. The full size bolts were cut, leaving the port open. To my knowledge there weren't any issues with this type of conversion. There is a reference to this bolt conversion in Daves book.
Good point and very true. I'll be the first to admit my personal bias against open-ended ejection ports.
50+ years as a machinist working on antique systems (Harleys, firearms, my own body) has taught me that if something is going to go wrong; it's almost always what you figured would never happen... and that failures happen at the most inopportune moments.
50+ years as a machinist working on antique systems (Harleys, firearms, my own body) has taught me that if something is going to go wrong; it's almost always what you figured would never happen... and that failures happen at the most inopportune moments.
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