Cost to sandblast and Parkerize Uzi receiver

[root]

When it comes to chemicals I'd skip using anything you plan to keep using to cook comsumable food with.

I hit a thrift shop years ago and got a old taster oven that I use to bake gun parts and remove moisture from borax along with other stuff.

It was bought with the sole purpose of cooking stuff for hobby use and since it was cheap I don't even have to worry about how it is stored so it sits on a shelf in my shop.

Cost me like 8 bux.
Last time I used it was to bake alumihyde on a galil stock for my M10.

 

[ScottinTexas]

I am still looking at options to put a finish on my McKay receiver. I had my "in the white" McKay receiver sandblasted and learned (always the hard way) that you just have a short period of time to do the parkerizing after sandblasting. Opps- my bad. I do not "see" any rust on it and it is stored in a safe with a heating element, but concerned about rust I cannot see with the naked eye.

I may GunKote it. but that requires "curing" it in a oven a low temp. Does anyone know how bad my wife will kill me if I do that in our kitchen oven? She is going on a week long trip in a few weeks and does a "smell" remain in the oven very long? I do not want to add to the cost of this project a new oven!

After you're done, just cook some bacon in a cookie tray and parchment paper.

 

[Paul Kersey]

When it comes to chemicals I'd skip using anything you plan to keep using to cook comsumable food with.

I hit a thrift shop years ago and got a old taster oven that I use to bake gun parts and remove moisture from borax along with other stuff.

It was bought with the sole purpose of cooking stuff for hobby use and since it was cheap I don't even have to worry about how it is stored so it sits on a shelf in my shop.

Cost me like 8 bux.
Last time I used it was to bake alumihyde on a galil stock for my M10.

Great idea

Thanks

 

[root]

Another use I use it for is to pre heat parts I am parkerizing.

If there is any grease/ oil left in,a seam or surface the,warming process will bring it right out to your attention to be degreased again.
If not you will cantaminate your cook solution and that part will not take the parkerizing leaving a splotchy finish where the oil had to bubble out before the park could get into that area.

Good way to tell at gunshows if refinished mags & parts were done 1/2 assed or not.

 

[Kramer]

When it comes to Parkerizing, Root can cook like "Pinkman" in a Winnebago. lol

 

[Paul Kersey]

Parkerizing sounds easy, I just don't know if I want to "learn" on a pretty expensive part (to me anyway). BUT- it is sometime I might try on misc parts (like old magazines, etc.).

What is slowing me down is if I SBR it I have to have it engraved with my name and city/state? I have read where someone had it done on the edge of the receiver at the top, and the UZI top cover will cover it when the cover in on.

One more question (and don't read if I am boring everyone on all my posts):
What are your thoughts on a Parkerizing Solution from Allegheny Arsenal vs. Brownells or other places? The last two is a 4 to 1 mix ratio with water, and the Allegheny is 28 to 1 with water. It seems you go a lot further with the Allegheny concentrate. I have read where the solutions are all pretty much alike, but obviously the Allegheny solution is a lot more "powerful/goes further"?

 

[root]

parkerizing is easy.
The secrets are prep, attention to detail, follow the solutions instructions prep, attention to detail.

Make sure you blast the inside of mags or it will ruin/ contaminate your solution.
Never had a problem with any of Kramer's stuff or my own preped but had a idiot bring me thompson mags that were not done inside.
The rust ruined the cook and his mags came out horrible.
He admitted he only did the outside with the excuse you only see that and he was in a hurry.

Wouldn't have mattered to me accept I had a paying customer that was having his whole rifle done so I had to toss the solution & decontaminate the tanks then start over for the rifle.

Time consuming and expensive for me.

I once did a 50 bmg McMillian receiver for a guy.
Now that was a expensive part.

Kramer was there for that cook we did some other stuff too that day.
The solution is good so long as it is kept @ the right temp and not allowed to cool. Or cantaminated by a idiot that is in a hurry and can't follow instructions.
Once cooled it needs thrown out, it won't reactivate.

I use the concentrate solution no idea about the ready mix stuff that comes in gallon jugs accept you may need more then a gallon to fill certain tanks and that is where the concentrate is nice. Just keep adding a Oz. per gallon until the tank is full enough to cover the part.

mg34 has a stellar rep with his parts kits no idea on his solutions.
In otherwords I don't know if he makes it on site or just resells.
You can make your own solution if you so wish not hard.

I buy the pre made concentrate to get both grey & black and it's consistent from batch to batch.
I'm on my 2nd order in 20 years so it lasts a long time so long as you are cooking boxes of stuff at once and not one or two items at a time.

This is the stuff I use.



And for bluing I use this stuff.



Whole different thread but I will say it costs more to blue in time and money.
Unless you are using that cheap cold blue crap that is only good for a touchup on a scratch.
Ya I've seen guys try to do whole guns with it.
Horroble fuck'n savages they are!

 

[slimshady]

The Brownells solution is reusable, you mix up a replenishment solution with the concentrate and replace what evaporated away. This also replaces the acid and metal used up by the process. Commercial operations generally test each tank and adjust ingredients as needed.

Park solutions are just phosphoric acid with metal dissolved in it. The concentrate mix ratio simply means the ones that require less water are already diluted some, likely to avoid a hazmat issue with stronger acid. Most solutions require "aging" as a little dissolved iron is part of the phosphate coating. This is why you use steel wool before first use, or you can just park something inconsequential like old wrenches or something to get the iron in there.

 

[Paul Kersey]

Thank you guys, thanks for your answers and taking the time to type lengthy replies. I am still trying to decide if I want to SBR it that will require engraving, so that has to come before all else.

 

[slimshady]

Unless things have changed, you can put the required maker info on the bbl. Serial number is required on frame, other info can be on bbl. Of course ATF changes things all the time, but as of a year or so ago it was Kosher.

 

[Paul Kersey]

I have to admit I need to research this. I would prefer barrel of course. Do you know if the serial number McKay put on it is all that is needed, or, do I need to create a new one for the Form 1? (my next step is to pull up a Form 1 and see what it has one it).

 

[root]

The serial # on it is all you will use no need to add one unless you are doing a gun with zero info to start like a AR lower paper weight that needs milled and has no info to start.

Or any other blank receiver.
Nodak should have went FFL though if I remember correct
I parkerized one one time but don't remember the info off hand.

Now that I mention it.
Make sure the trunnion is welded/set correct.
The one I did was 30k set forward and wouldn't strike the primer.
Had to mill back the trunnion 30k to get the barrel back to correct headspace.
Didn't find out until after it was already parked & painted.
So the front under the barrel nut is naked accept for some cold blue.

 

[Paul Kersey]

Thanks for the info. I printed out a Form 1 and need to study it. I would love it IF the only engraving I'd have to have done is on the barrel.

The McKay receiver went through a FFL. I have had the gun assembled (with the receiver still "in the white") and it works perfect.

Thanks for replying to my endless postings :O)
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Added: I went online to research the SBR process. In an article from "The Truth About Guns" the author states he got this directly from the BATF. (I tried to go and read the BATF site stuff and just got all confused). The article stated:

"In short, if you don’t intend to sell your new firearm after turning it into an NFA device, you don’t need to engrave it. But if you ever sell it later (even after removing it from the registry), you will need to use an engraver and put the proper identification on it with the proper minimum depth and print size and in the proper location, such as the mag well for a rifle."

I will never sell the item, and may put it in a NFA Trust so that my kids can have access to it as well), but from reading this the Manufacturer engraving from McKay Enterprises and serial number (receiver went through an FFL) may be all I need? (understanding if it IS ever sold it will need to have it engraved with my name, city, state as well). If it needs to be done, then hopefully on the barrel will be a acceptable location.