Cost to sandblast and Parkerize Uzi receiver

[Paul Kersey]

I am trying to decide if I want to build on a McKay receiver and am looking at the total cost. Looking at Gun Broker (sold items), I really do not want to have way more in it than buying a completed IMI gun or another Mckay build.

Does anyone have any experience on outsourcing sand blasting the welded receiver and having it Parkerized, and if so, what did it roughly cost?

I have IMI complete Model A bolt carrier group (striker assembly, bolt complete, buffer)
IMI 16 inch chrome lined barrel
Model A complete lower/grip with internals (semi sear)
Rear sight group

Seems a shame not to complete it for I am so close, but may just sell the parts id total complete is more than guns selling now.

Thank you for any replies

 

[Galil#1]

Top choice, especially if you want it done right is Sam/Practical Solutions. Call him for cost, will be real reasonable and worth every penny without question. I had only positive experience with Sam and he also did work on a UZI for me. Good luck with your project.

 

[Paul Kersey]

Thanks for the reply and the information. I will see what it will cost, but probably more than I want to put into it. I may check local places that can sand blast and get a kit from Brownells and park it myself. I most likely will paint it over the park.

As mentioned, my options are to sell the parts I have, or, complete the build. I do not to have more into the gun than they are going for on like GunBroker. I have the parts mentioned, but I am looking at total cost that includes the value of the parts I have plus what I need to buy and services to finish it. Guess I have more thinking to do.

 

[ScottinTexas]

You might be surprised at how fair Sam at PS is. I suggest you call them.

 

[slimshady]

If you have an air compressor or know someone with one, a cheap blaster with onboard abrasive tank is only $30, less when on sale or coupon at Harbor Freight. A bag of quickrete play sand is $5 at Lowe's. Wear a face shield and dust max and blast over the lawn, the sand will disappear into the ground. Works fine for a one off project. Dust mask is a must, silica stays in the lungs.

All you need to park is a big SS stock pot, a thermometer, and the solution. Do it on a camp stove outside. The part doesn't have to be submerged, just ladle solution over it constantly to keep it wet. Flip end over end a few times too. You could also make a tank from heavy wall plastic drain pipe, cap one end, drop in the receiver and fill it from the pot of solution heated to max temp, it will cool but still be above min temp by the time it is done. If not, rinse, reheat, and do it again.

Once degreased, blast and go to solution. When done, rinse with water and oil or dry off if painting.

 

[Galil#1]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Mad Max ghetto-fabulous style but if it works it works. Can't get $$ cheaper too.

 

[Paul Kersey]

WOW- great idea!

I have built 2 Aks and had one built by professional. I have to admit I tend to be more proud of my builds, although the professional built is perfect and my builds have a few cosmetic quirks. In fact, one is a mixture of Romanian, Hungarian, Chinese, and Polish parts- all on a Nodac Spud receiver. Yes- she's a mutt, but she always puts a smile on my face.

I have one heck of a wife, I told her putting the UZI together I will have more in it than it's worth. She said don't worry about it, eventually our son will get it and he will have more pride in it because YOU put it together. She is right- down the road I have NEVER thought about the money in anything.

 

[sniperdoc]

WOW- great idea!

I have built 2 Aks and had one built by professional. I have to admit I tend to be more proud of my builds, although the professional built is perfect and my builds have a few cosmetic quirks. In fact, one is a mixture of Romanian, Hungarian, Chinese, and Polish parts- all on a Nodac Spud receiver. Yes- she's a mutt, but she always puts a smile on my face.

I have one heck of a wife, I told her putting the UZI together I will have more in it than it's worth. She said don't worry about it, eventually our son will get it and he will have more pride in it because YOU put it together. She is right- down the road I have NEVER thought about the money in anything.

Sounds like my wife's attitude. I always talk there before making a major purchase, and she's never said no about guns, swords, tools, etc

 

[P Kersey]

Sounds like my wife's attitude. I always talk there before making a major purchase, and she's never said no about guns, swords, tools, etc

Discussing any major (all relative I understand) purchase from either side in a marriage is a good path to a long marriage.

 

[Paul Kersey]

Project is on-going. I have the McKay welded receiver. I found someone with a sand blaster= yea. But do you sandblast the entire thing or just the outside and not the inside where the feed ramp is? Also, I assume sandblasting should not be done on the inside walls where the bolt slides?

Thanks

 

[slimshady]

You blast anything/anywhere you want parkerized, without the roughened surface the solution won't react with the metal very well. Obviously protect the muzzle and chamber of the bbl and you can mask off the feed ramp. The park will wear smooth in wear areas pretty quickly.

 

[Paul Kersey]

Many thanks.

How do you mask off the feed ramp- with duct tape? (Or- what is the best method?) I would think tape would be quickly stripped off while blasting.

The receiver will be stripped, so feed ramp I feel is the only place I need to be concerned with. As you said. the inside walls will wear pretty quickly if there us rubbing on the bolt and the walls.

I may also "paint" over the Park, any finish you'd recommend over any other?

Thank You.
Gary

 

[slimshady]

A good heavy duty sticky plastic electrical tape works great, buy 3M or other premium brand not the "dollah fiddy store" 10 rolls for a buck fifty special. Trim edges with an exacto knife or razor blade. The trick to blasting a masked area is to go from the direction of the tape to the edge, that way the abrasive doesn't peel up the edge. The plastic will absorb some of the abrasive action, but will quickly wear through so get the job done and move on. If it starts getting ratty before you are done, simply stop and re-tape, or use a double layer.. A little 400-600 grit wet or dry sandpaper lubed with oil will smooth out any "Burn Through" oopsies on the ramp. Remember to degrease before taping.

I use GunKote almost exclusively, but any of the bake on finishes would likely work well. I always use the zinc park when painting, finer grain and looks/feels smoother than the manganese. Oiling it up, I choose based on color I want. Dark to light black, manganese, light to dark grey (and later that wonderful green you see on old WWII guns) I use the zinc. Little trick to get some green right away is to buy a tube of really dark green artist's oil paint and mix it in with some WD40 in a pump sprayer bottle. Use that to oil the fresh park and let it soak for a few days as the parkerizing "cures". Wipe down well and re-oil with motor oil or gun oil before reassembly.

Midway carries the common GunKote colors and often has it on sale, and run free shipping deals several times a month. You can spray it with the cheap Harbor Freight touch up guns or air brush.

 

[Paul Kersey]

All makes sense and thanks for the information. I have used GunKote in the past and have been happy with it. I know there are other "paints" but it will probably be GunKote over the Park.

I have everything now but a few bolts and nuts (forward handguard) and some springs. I believe I can get these at ACE (or some other hardware store).

The sling swivel also needs to be done and I hear it can be difficult to get the "pin" installed right. UZI parts are not that easy to come by anymore but I'll probably need to buy swivel and the pin made for the UZI. Shipping from multiple sources/vendors is making these parts more expensive. Yea- I waited too long, it would be nice to get everything from a single source. :O(

I read no more parts kits from Israel. I bet after I get this done more "kits" will flood into the country again from some other source. Errrrrrr. That's the way I roll. :O(

 

[AdamsAutomatics]

All makes sense and thanks for the information. I have used GunKote in the past and have been happy with it. I know there are other "paints" but it will probably be GunKote over the Park.

I have everything now but a few bolts and nuts (forward handguard) and some springs. I believe I can get these at ACE (or some other hardware store).

The sling swivel also needs to be done and I hear it can be difficult to get the "pin" installed right. UZI parts are not that easy to come by anymore but I'll probably need to buy swivel and the pin made for the UZI. Shipping from multiple sources/vendors is making these parts more expensive. Yea- I waited too long, it would be nice to get everything from a single source. :O(

I read no more parts kits from Israel. I bet after I get this done more "kits" will flood into the country again from some other source. Errrrrrr. That's the way I roll. :O(

Paul, if you have not completed this yet, send me a message. I do a good amount of this work on these and may be able to help.

 

[Paul Kersey]

Paul, if you have not completed this yet, send me a message. I do a good amount of this work on these and may be able to help.

I have not completed it. Still " in the white" but all parts fitted, so I may take you up on any advice you have.

 

[navgunner]

Paul, if you have not completed this yet, send me a message. I do a good amount of this work on these and may be able to help.

I’m happy to give my personal endorsement to Adam’s Automatics. He’s worked on my UZIs with great results.

 

[Paul Kersey]

If I do not "give it a go myself"- that is who I will use. :O)

 

[Paul Kersey]

I am still looking at options to put a finish on my McKay receiver. I had my "in the white" McKay receiver sandblasted and learned (always the hard way) that you just have a short period of time to do the parkerizing after sandblasting. Opps- my bad. I do not "see" any rust on it and it is stored in a safe with a heating element, but concerned about rust I cannot see with the naked eye.

I may GunKote it. but that requires "curing" it in a oven a low temp. Does anyone know how bad my wife will kill me if I do that in our kitchen oven? She is going on a week long trip in a few weeks and does a "smell" remain in the oven very long? I do not want to add to the cost of this project a new oven!

 

[slimshady]

While it is baking there is a slight odor, just open a window or two and let it air out. Once done I have never detected anything like an odor or odd taste in food cooked in the same oven. Once dried, almost all the solvent is gone and you are essentially just melting/curing the plastic like finish.