Jamming trouble

sigfla

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I am having a bit of trouble with one of my factory M11 uppers. Live rounds feed into the breech fine but once fired they stick halfway in the barrel very tightly. The extractor claw grips the round but doesn't pull it all the way out. This hasn't happened in the aftermarket uppers I have. Any suggestions?
 

stymie

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Try NATO ball ammo...

or any other ammo that has sturdier brass cases that won't expand as much. Avoid BLASER aluminum or Russian mild steel cases at all costs. Apparently your OEM chamber is a bit tight. That can be polished for better extraction!
 

tommygun2000

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sigfla said:
I am having a bit of trouble with one of my factory M11 uppers. Live rounds feed into the breech fine but once fired they stick halfway in the barrel very tightly. The extractor claw grips the round but doesn't pull it all the way out. This hasn't happened in the aftermarket uppers I have. Any suggestions?

I'm having the same problem with my M11 lately. I did find the extractor loaded with residue from lots of previous shooting. I cleaned it after driving out the roll pin. I also filed the extractor lip a bit to sharpen it up and deepen the groove. I also filed the portion that rests againgst the bolt and sets the depth of the extractor. A cartridge holds firmly in place now and it seems that the extractor has a good grip. After firing, the case gets stuck in the chamber, halfway out. I suspect that the chamber is not cylindrical anymore..but bulged a bit in the middle portion of the chamber. This would tend to make the brass form like a football and preclude it from passing easily out of the chamber during extraction. If this is the case, I know specifically that it is from firing a couple of mags of Hirtenberger +P+ ammo, as this problem didn't crop up until after this ammo was fired.

I'm going to do some measuring and put a straight edge in the chamber to check for parallel sides.
 

sigfla

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Sounds like that may be my problem. The top end is a bit twisted when I pin it back onto the frame. I have to use a screwdrive to get it to line up. That may contribute also. I am now shooting winchester bulk pack out of it and that is the ammo that is doing it but the hirt I fired did it also. If I could get the barrel off without having to deal with another roll pin I would polish the chamber a bit. I am just gonna wait until my new RPB sidecocker comes in before I shoot it.

BTW I no longer have the desire to Sten convert it. I ordered some of the recon ord metal mags and they are awesome. They fit my paddle catch perfectly and they are very clean and sturdy. I believe they are Argentinian military mags. Some of them were still greasy and in way better shape than the CDNN's I ordered.

A little rant: I hate the roll pins in the M11. They are a bitch to get loose. I would love a 2 piece designed recoil guide rod for the thing so I can change springs easier along with a decent solid pin for the extractor. I can live with the disconnector roll pin as it isn't replaced too often but all the others are a pain. Especially the extractor pin. I would love to be able to remove it easily for cleaning. It seems like a solid pin would work just as well and be held in place by the spring tension.
 

stymie

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Put a Blackjack buffer in your m11/9 smg...

They seem to last forever... & when they finally do start to wear... it's time to trash the bolt as well; by that time the bolt/sear contact points are rounded to runaway status anyway!
 

tommygun2000

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RE: Removing the barrel to polish chamber

sigfla said:
Sounds like that may be my problem. The top end is a bit twisted when I pin it back onto the frame. I have to use a screwdrive to get it to line up. That may contribute also. I am now shooting winchester bulk pack out of it and that is the ammo that is doing it but the hirt I fired did it also. If I could get the barrel off without having to deal with another roll pin I would polish the chamber a bit. I am just gonna wait until my new RPB sidecocker comes in before I shoot it.

You can access the chamber with the gun apart, no need to remove the barrel.
 

sigfla

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Did a little polishing around the breech area. Solved the problem. I also got my new upper the same day so all the better. I have switched to metal mags from Recon Ord. I NO LONGER WISH TO STEN CONVERT MY M11. Those things work great.

The M11 is now a pleasure to shoot. If only it took a double stack mag that you could use a loader for. I still hate the extractor roll pin. It is a POS. I am pretty sure a solid pin design would work just as well. The tension on the extractor from the spring should hold the pin in place. My extractor spring was very weak in addition to the tightness of the chamber so I am sure that contributed to my problem. The pain of it all is that changing that thing is so tough with the roll pins. I ended up ordering a new bolt, extractor, spring, and pin. I swapped the firing pin and now have the new bolt in my new upper and keep the other as a spare.
 

Gun Shot

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Blackjack buffers

stymie is absolutely right about Blackjack buffers. Although I do not have one in my M12 yet, I do have them in both my Norinco and Romanian Ak-47's, and they are, without a doubt, the best buffer money can buy. The owner is a highly respectable guy, will stand behind his product 100%, and offers commendable service.

Sorry, that was a bit off-topic, but I just had to chime in :D .
 

Gun Shot

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Here's a link to Randy's (Blackjack) site Blackjack! . It's a damn shame he doesn't make one for the Uzi...yet. I'm going to have to try and talk him into making one!
 

sigfla

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Went shooting today after work. I had 3 M11's to play with this time. I can see now that the majority of my problem centered around a weak extractor spring. All of the guns had tight chambers when a spent round was reinserted into the breech. the empty shell casings were all a very tight fit. However my gun (with new bolt, extractor, and spring) was very tough to get cleated onto the emtpy shell casing when they were reinserted into the breech. It took the force of the bolt slamming forward to engage the extractor claw onto the rim of the shell casing.

Another of the M11's had the same extraction problem I had and its extractor claw was pitifully weak in comparison to mine. It easily engaged the rim of the cartridge case merely by placing the bolt up against end of the spent round. My gun ran flawlessly along with another strong spring gun with a factory upper. Only the weak spring gun jammed.

If I could just figure an easy way to remove the damn roll pin I could fix that one as well.
 

tommygun2000

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RE: Roll pin removal



If I could just figure an easy way to remove the damn roll pin I could fix that one as well. [/B]


I think by now, its time to go to an automotive store or Sears or other store that sells punches and purchase two or three of the size needed to remove the roll pin along with a small brass hammer. Also, buy a couple of spare pins to keep with you at the range in case you drop one and lose it. With the right punch, removal is not that hard. I've also thought of making a wooden jig to hold the bolt with the right clearance holes to facilitate the pin as it is driven from its normal position.
This is my next plan of action, to insure that I can repair my gun on scene in short order. I'm making up a tool box with spare parts and tools to do on the spot repairs.
 

sigfla

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Appropriate punch size:

Just in case anyone was wondering the right size to get is a 3/32 pin punch. (BTW it is way too easy to remove and replace the extractor pin now). Thanks for the info everyone. I removed 3 of them today and replaced the springs and cleaned up the engagement on them all.
 

mac

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BlackJack answers the call so it seems

I see that he has THREE different sizes for the SMGUZI!!!
 
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