Re: M10/47 SABRE Upper

[mak91]

Very good advice. I would be very excited if a member who had access to a CNC mill would take this project and run with it. Gotgraham also suggested that we do a 3D printed version for the purpose of working through any issues with the M10 version.

I will be meeting this week with a friend who can update the M10 drawings and talk about the costs for his services. I will post what I learn from that conversation here.

Just my 2 cents but if it was me I would want the prototype and the rest of the receivers made on the same cnc machine. cnc machines are calibrated motor steps to distanced traveled. DRO's used in calibrations have min max tolerances, milling machines even with zero backlash ballscrews still have some backlash to worry about. All these things could stack up and give you enough tolerance difference between two machines to give you problems with the parts not being exactly the same dimensions.

 

[Gaujo]

Yea. Another ideaa would be to crowd fund a bounty for a working prototype, and try and lure gotgraham or mak91 into the project somehow

 

[jkacg1]

I met with my friend who can update the .dwg files with gotgraham's changes and he will be giving me a quote for his services. He is not familiar with gcode, so if anyone can give me some direction with converting the .DWG to gcode, that would be greatly appreciated. He is proficient in AutoCAD and Inventor.

 

[bac0nfat]

I met with my friend who can update the .dwg files with gotgraham's changes and he will be giving me a quote for his services. He is not familiar with gcode, so if anyone can give me some direction with converting the .DWG to gcode, that would be greatly appreciated. He is proficient in AutoCAD and Inventor.

gcode is going to be the machining file, it's not so much "converting" the file but generating the tool paths based on the drawing. It has to be generated with the particular machine in mind so you can figure out the offset distances, feed rates, plunge rates, tool changes, etc. It would have to be done by someone who is familiar with the machine that's being used.

 

[supperman]

In for an M10 version!

 

[West_Texas_King]

If one were to use the bolt on sear catch/recoil rod that mak91 made for the M11/15, that would simplify things considerably.

 

[jkacg1]

That is the design I had planned on using along with mak91's sear catches.

The updated drawings with gotgraham's improvements should be done this week.

 

[techspy]

Cool

 

[Spicoli]

M10 I'm in!

 

[nklf]

I would be in but I do not have access to a machine shop. No way for me to hand fit parts. I guess I'll have to wait and hope Richard offers one eventually.

 

[ballistic1]

^^^This...
I would also happily pay for a complete working M10/47 sabre.. but I do not possess the talent
or skillset requisite of such a task.
Count me in if this project develops into a "pin it on and go shoot" version

 

[jkacg1]

I am moving forward with a prototype, and have all the parts and materials (except the receiver halves), but have hit a snag with the CNC shop. They flagged the upper as falling under the GCA, and the more I talked the quicker they ran, though I encouraged them to have the "gunsmith" they have on retainer to contact me. I will pursue a local shop that might be more reasonable. The drawings for the M10/47 SABRE were worse than I had realized, as they had not included any way to attach to the MAC receiver, which is quite the oversight. Because of this, I will be 3D printing the SABRE before any next step. Anyone have access to a 3D printer?

 

[Battering ram NIB]

id be in for a M10 version....but we dont know the location of the hole for any future Lage .223 upper

buying this and drilling it would mean drilling a 2nd hole when the M10/223 lage eventually comes out (if it does)

the back may look like swiss cheese....maybe some of you own more than 1 M10 so its not a big deal....

its very cool to have the option and id normally jump at the opportunity....

 

[Gaujo]

What are the minimum printable area dimensions needed to make the largest piece?

 

[jkacg1]

The receiver is 20.5" in length, but as gotgraham described on his weaponsguild post, he printed it in sections based on the limits of his 3D printer.

 

[jkacg1]

id be in for a M10 version....but we dont know the location of the hole for any future Lage .223 upper

buying this and drilling it would mean drilling a 2nd hole when the M10/223 lage eventually comes out (if it does)

the back may look like swiss cheese....maybe some of you own more than 1 M10 so its not a big deal....

its very cool to have the option and id normally jump at the opportunity....

Task system is how both uppers (the coming Lage product and the SABRE) handle the recoil assembly. This has already been stated. The hole is in the same spot.

 

[Battering ram NIB]

Task system is how both uppers (the coming Lage product and the SABRE) handle the recoil assembly. This has already been stated. The hole is in the same spot.

i believe the question has been asked of Lage and he talked about lowering the hole.....i would not assume its in the same location

that project may be years from completion....

look at the thread from him...its in there...i believe i brought it up as i considered buying a AA 223 upper and wanted to verify

 

[FAL]

Yes, Richard did state not to assume the hole will be in the same location.

 

[Battering ram NIB]

http://www.uzitalk.com/forums/showthread.php?84842-M11-15-Prototype/page13

look at #244...he talks about it being better lower......

if all the holes would be in the same locations id gladly buy all these uppers and a sabre too.....you may have to pick and choose which uppers you want to shoot or have multiple M10's with different holes for each

im not trying to be an Ahole bringing this up and wreck your sales....i have watched this thread and would love an Ak M10....as im sure most M10 owners would....but i also want to drill the hole once in the back and not have it repaired and redrilled for the next upper on the market....

maybe the hole can be 1/2" and accommodate all the uppers coming out?

 

[SecondAmend]

Just leave enough metal for the rear sight on top and enough metal at the bottom to hold the stock. Cut the rest of the back off. No need to worry about the location of one, two,.. holes. Slap any upper you want on.