AWC MK9 suppressor

CKxx

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I managed to find a good deal on an old Mk9. It showed up today and it's in fantastic shape (possibly unfired), and has the original baffle stack.

One problem... It didn't include the disassembly tool. Does anyone have one they can photo and pull dimensions from, or even sell?

Thank you!

ayAWE1.jpg
 

amphibian

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It thought the MK9 just had two holes on the front end cap for a spanner wrench.
Check out this old thread from 2014: http://www.uzitalk.com/forums/showthread.php?75323-So-I-purchased-a-used-97-AWC-MK9-and-got-a-great-deal-on-it

I think the one in the link above is newer than what you have. The later MK9's had that krinkle looking finish but I don't think yours has that from your picture.

Pics of the tool used there which looks simple enough to make.

Although you can get a cheap spanner wrench from Harbor Freight that may work to only take off the front end cap for like 5.99: https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-pin-wrench-36554.html
But I don't know what the pin size is on your end cap.

Some other options here: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Finish-Adjustable-Spanner-Drilled/dp/B07HQHSRKS/ref=asc_df_B07HQHSRKS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309735728871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3615381582590440406&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011775&hvtargid=pla-612004059106&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6613-Variable-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B000F5JMEA

As mentioned in the first link I sent you, that guy wanted the original design and reached out to Tim Bixler in 2014. Unfortunately, I think Tim has passed away. He was a legend in the community. I've always been a huge fan of his work. He is the inventor of the first 3 lug suppressor mount which I think is still the best today.
I have written about it on my site here: https://c3junkie.com/?page_id=553

I have also written about my favorite SMG can, the CT9KS by Curtis Tactical here: https://c3junkie.com/?page_id=244

Joe at Curtis Tactical, also makes a re-core for the original MK9, MK9K and now the short CT9KS which I initially had him make for me.

If I were you, I'd measure the holes on your endcap and get a spanner wrench to fit it and then after getting that off maybe you can figure out what generation baffle stack you have. Maybe you have a really old one with a diffuser with stamped baffles or maybe it was re-cored w/ later K baffles...who knows.
I'm sure it will be very quiet with all that volume especially if it is like new like you said. However, as mentioned in the first link, it is hard to disassemble that inner core.

I would weigh the suppressor now so you have a baseline documenting the weight before it gains weight from getting dirty. I've already clogged up a couple MK9K's with fouling which is why I had Curtis Tactical make me a better mouse trap. Having a lot of volume with the coaxial design is great but if the ports that lead to the outer tube get clogged then there is no point.

I understand the desire to keep everything original as well so I'm not knocking that either. Phil Dater is no longer part of Gemtech and I see him post on AR15.com. I believe he still has his license and may also do some custom work if you need him and want to keep the classic design.

I would suggest either way you go that you can also add some shim stock inside to prevent fouling to the outer tube like I have pictured below:
You should be able to do that with your MK9 now after removing the outer tube.

CT9KS-ShimStock1-1024x872.png
 
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mike

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My suppressor is in a AWC MK9 here are some pictures of the wrench that it uses to unscrew the end cap. I don’t know if this helps I hope it does.
 

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CKxx

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My suppressor is in a AWC MK9 here are some pictures of the wrench that it uses to unscrew the end cap. I don’t know if this helps I hope it does.

That's fantastic. Can you also get me the diameter of the pin itself? From there I can replicate it.
 

mike

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Here’s a few more pictures I hope this helps. I see you’re in Southeastern Pennsylvania so am I you’re certainly welcome to borrow the wrench if you need to.
 

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CKxx

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Here’s a few more pictures I hope this helps. I see you’re in Southeastern Pennsylvania so am I you’re certainly welcome to borrow the wrench if you need to.

PM sent!
 

CKxx

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It thought the MK9 just had two holes on the front end cap for a spanner wrench....

Thank you for the information. I like the shim stock protector idea. I will look into that for the MK9 and my Phoenix.

The problem with using a spanner wrench is the there are also interior lock rings that need to be loosened via the same "pattern" that are about 2 inches into the inner tube.
 

amphibian

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Thank you for the information. I like the shim stock protector idea. I will look into that for the MK9 and my Phoenix.

The problem with using a spanner wrench is the there are also interior lock rings that need to be loosened via the same "pattern" that are about 2 inches into the inner tube.


I realize that....that is why I mentioned in my first post that if you wanted to go cheap and just get the front end cap off and see what you are dealing with. I believe the later MK9's or ones that were rebuilt by AWC used K baffles and they may not have that internal lock ring.
One thing you can also do is just get two drill bits and put them in a vise. Then put the end cap on that and try getting it loose by hand.
 

glockman

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Here’s a few more pictures I hope this helps. I see you’re in Southeastern Pennsylvania so am I you’re certainly welcome to borrow the wrench if you need to.

Hey mike, was wondering if you could give me the outer diameter of that tool? Was thinking about having one made for me. Thank you for your help sir.
 

mike

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Hope this helps.
 

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CKxx

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I realize that....that is why I mentioned in my first post that if you wanted to go cheap and just get the front end cap off and see what you are dealing with. I believe the later MK9's or ones that were rebuilt by AWC used K baffles and they may not have that internal lock ring.
One thing you can also do is just get two drill bits and put them in a vise. Then put the end cap on that and try getting it loose by hand.

The end cap was already loose. I want to get past the internal ring.
 

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