Max-10/15s getting called / we know what number we are on?

[strobro32]

Thanks for checking Jake.

 

[strobro32]

I may need to get 2 more from PSA.

 

[A&S Conversions]

I'm getting some D-60s. I've loaded about 3K rounds this weekend. I plan on testing a drum 50x in a row to see what's what.

So to be clear, Vegas had mentioned to me that the original Max-11/15 would run 30 round mag after mag. On the other end, with Beta-C drums a standard direct impingement upper will run two Beta-C mags back to back. But if you put a third Beta-C in, the gas tube will fail before the third one is finished. The Melonite treated gas tubes last a little better than a standard gas tube. So I don't know how many 60 round drums in a row could be shot before the gas tube fails.

Scott

 

[strobro32]

I would not run them back to back. I would let the upper cool. I just want to test the drums.

 

[chili17]

So to be clear, Vegas had mentioned to me that the original Max-11/15 would run 30 round mag after mag. On the other end, with Beta-C drums a standard direct impingement upper will run two Beta-C mags back to back. But if you put a third Beta-C in, the gas tube will fail before the third one is finished. The Melonite treated gas tubes last a little better than a standard gas tube. So I don't know how many 60 round drums in a row could be shot before the gas tube fails.

Scott

We ran over 700rds through a beta unit as fast as we could change mags with no issues. This was with standard 30rd mags though. Did dump a beta mag and a d60 back to back with no issues

 

[Eurodriver]

Got my 10/15. Looks like about 30% drop off rate comparing my SN to the original waiting list #. Odd - who doesn't want one of these things?!?!?

Zero failures whatsoever suppressed or unsuppressed with M193. Accuracy is ok, still trying to get a decent zero at 100y but the trigger on these things is atrocious.

 

[Deerhurst]

Pretty sure it's more than 30%. My SN is just above half my wait list number was.

They are expensive and when it comes down to putting money where your mouth is many folks don't. For others circumstances change and they no longer have the cash for it. It happens.


As for mag dumps, it takes a while to pop a gas tube without belt fed or huge mags. As soon as heat is not being applied it all starts to cool.

 

[root]

No problem on the GB for the 60s.
Really only a:want pretty sure I have enough feeding devices.

I was #108 got #64 almost 1/2 then.
Hopefully the guys that had to drop can get back in line and pick one up.
The release was kinda sudden for the amount of time we waited for the batfe to say ok.

Then we got the spend more faster administration and inflation caught up to the guys with the champagne appetites on beer budgets.
Like mentioned ya want food & gas or a new toy?

A young guy said a few days: ago to me and others.

Paid my rent and electric.
Now I have a warm place to starve.

Look on his face said he really wasn't joking.

Here's to hoping the dropouts can get their Lage GED down the road.

 

[Deerhurst]

I feel the warm place to starve thing sometimes. That's how college went. Food, fuel are insanely expensive. 8% inflation my ass. More like 50% inflation because thats what everything costs more than a couple years ago. It's rough for some folks. I feel for the folks that were just making ends meet before and are struggling now. Quote a few folks like that in my AO and that I work with. Makes me very concerned.

My upper is in the 160s and my number was 244.

 

[Eurodriver]

With my gas shut all the way off (clockwise until it stops) on my Odin gas block, I am still getting gas in my face with a suppressor. It does not cycle unsuppressed all the way in. I just thought it would do better reducing gas - I cant tell much of a difference from fully closed and 5 clicks out with a suppressor. I am running it around 3 clicks out for both suppressed and unsuppressed use now.

 

[Deerhurst]

Talk to Lage. They will sort it out.

 

[m11stuff@hotmail.com]

With my gas shut all the way off (clockwise until it stops) on my Odin gas block, I am still getting gas in my face with a suppressor. It does not fire unsuppressed all the way in. I just thought it would do better reducing gas - I cant tell much of a difference from fully closed and 5 clicks out with a suppressor. I am running it around 3 clicks out for both suppressed and unsuppressed use now.

What ammo are you using? Seems odd that it would cycle suppressed with the gas shut off.

 

[m11stuff@hotmail.com]

With the gas block turned all the way closed, the gun should not cycle. At a minimum, it should short stroke.

Is it possible that the gas adjustment screw is locked in place and the clicks you feel are actually the hex inside the adjustment screw being rounded off? There is a set screw on the side of the gas block for adjusting the detente. If it is set too deep, the gas screw will not rotate. Another set screw is located on the back of the gas block to lock the first set screw in place. If you find out that you have rounded off the hex in the gas adjustment screw, we will send you a rebuild kit for the gas block that includes the adjustment screw, ball detente, spring and two set screws. No charge.

If you shot your upper a lot suppressed before trying to adjust the gas, it may have gotten carbon fouled and is preventing the screw from fully seating.

I recommend that you remove the handguard to access the gas block adjustment screws and remove the rear set screw first, then the side set screw, spring and ball detente. The ball detente is very tiny, try not to lose it. Then remove the adjustment screw and clean it of carbon. Then add a drop of oil on the threads of the adjustment screw and screw it in until it fully seats. Then unscrew it a little and re-screw it in a couple of times to see if it seats deeper. Re-assemble by installing the gas adjustment screw first, then drop in the ball detente and spring and install the set screw. While rotating the adjustment screw back and forth to feel the detente action, tighten the set screw until you can positively feel the detente click. Then tighten the set screw on the back of the gas block to lock it all in place. Screw in the adjustment screw until it fully seats, then back it off 8 clicks as a starting point for test firing and final gas adjustment to your specific ammo.

If you would like to, you can return the upper and we will do all of this for free.

 

[root]

What can are you running?

I'm not getting any gas back on my F1 can factory settings runs the same no ROF increase or brass ejection change.

Now I do get gassed pretty good on the 10/31 with both the octane 9 and 45 cans.
Same with the OEM 45 upper and sionics two stage pretty gassy with lead or FMJ.

The rifle powder I'm using though seems to burn really clean compared to the pistol powders.

ETA: I cleaned the can and 10/15 upper last Saturday.
The can was dirtier then the upper and the can was pretty clean.

 

[Eurodriver]

With the gas block turned all the way closed, the gun should not cycle. At a minimum, it should short stroke.

Is it possible that the gas adjustment screw is locked in place and the clicks you feel are actually the hex inside the adjustment screw being rounded off? There is a set screw on the side of the gas block for adjusting the detente. If it is set too deep, the gas screw will not rotate. Another set screw is located on the back of the gas block to lock the first set screw in place. If you find out that you have rounded off the hex in the gas adjustment screw, we will send you a rebuild kit for the gas block that includes the adjustment screw, ball detente, spring and two set screws. No charge.

If you shot your upper a lot suppressed before trying to adjust the gas, it may have gotten carbon fouled and is preventing the screw from fully seating.

I recommend that you remove the handguard to access the gas block adjustment screws and remove the rear set screw first, then the side set screw, spring and ball detente. The ball detente is very tiny, try not to lose it. Then remove the adjustment screw and clean it of carbon. Then add a drop of oil on the threads of the adjustment screw and screw it in until it fully seats. Then unscrew it a little and re-screw it in a couple of times to see if it seats deeper. Re-assemble by installing the gas adjustment screw first, then drop in the ball detente and spring and install the set screw. While rotating the adjustment screw back and forth to feel the detente action, tighten the set screw until you can positively feel the detente click. Then tighten the set screw on the back of the gas block to lock it all in place. Screw in the adjustment screw until it fully seats, then back it off 8 clicks as a starting point for test firing and final gas adjustment to your specific ammo.

If you would like to, you can return the upper and we will do all of this for free.

I'm using Federal XM193 ammo. No need for me to send it in. I waited 2 years for it and I already love it too much to go without, but I appreciate the offer. :biker I can handle the gas block

I also understand the Odin Works GB is not your part, so I don't want to take up your time with it. I only shot about 60 rounds, 40 of which were suppressed, before attempting to adjust the GB. The ROF in videos I've taken for buddies is significantly slower now than it was stock, so I know it's actually adjusting internally. However, it will absolutely dump an entire mag with the gas block full closed.

I'll go ahead and take the handguard off and clean as you said. The way I have it now is the sweet spot anyway because I can fire it with a slower ROF unsuppressed with 100% reliability, and any less gas would not function unsuppressed anyway.

I'd like to be able to close the port more (basically, barely functioning with a suppressor) to get the gas under control but that's something I can work on as an added bonus - not a requirement. As I said, I was just surprised when it was screwed all the way in it still fired fine suppressed. Can anyone take a pic of the set screw all the way in on their gas block so I can compare it to how much mine sticks out?

I am using an M4-2000 with an ECCO machine modification to accept Keymo mounts.

Thanks for the help guys. Hope this isn't coming off as a bigger deal than it is - just hard to do mag dumps for fun with all of this gas and anything I can do to get it mitigated would be appreciated!

 

[root]

The m4 2000 is a smaller can not rated for sustained fa if I remember what my buddy told me about his.

I do know it's a smaller can then mine by a lot so that could be your gas blow back issue, just a lack of internal volume.

If I'm wrong about the sustained fa fire please correct me.
Haven't been around his m4 2k can in 2 years next month and then we were sighting in his savage axis 223 so we weren't even shooting semi auto.

 

[strobro32]

I shot about 70 rounds on mine before attempting to adjust the gas block. That was enough to strip the adjustment screw hex slot. I could hear/feel the clicking like Lage mentioned. I thought I turned of the gas but it was still open. An Odin rebuild kit was required. Ran great after that.

 

[Eurodriver]

What kind of accuracy are you guys getting with your 10/15s? I tried zeroing mine twice at 100y and I am unable to consistently hit a 6" circle. I attribute this to a combination of the poor trigger, open bolt design, and gas block touching the handguard - however I've shot an M240G and an M249 with better results so I'm not sure its the open bolt issue.

Just wondering what everyone else is getting

 

[10mmlover]

What kind of accuracy are you guys getting with your 10/15s? I tried zeroing mine twice at 100y and I am unable to consistently hit a 6" circle. I attribute this to a combination of the poor trigger, open bolt design, and gas block touching the handguard - however I've shot an M240G and an M249 with better results so I'm not sure its the open bolt issue.

Just wondering what everyone else is getting

I tried hitting a man sized target with a bipod and well supported MAX 31C which was impressively zeroed at 25 yards. I could barely get bursts on target at 60 yards. The stock trigger is reeeaallly bad. The forgotten weapons guy did it at distance targets with the m11/380 version and he also could barely hit a man sized target at range reliably.

 

[Deerhurst]

With the Max31 on semi I can easily hit a 2/3IPSC at 160 yards offhand. Didn't try the 180 yard. With the OEM 45 upper it is barely qualified to be an area effect at 180 yards let alone hit the 2/3 IPSC steel.

The 10/15 I was pretty easily bouncing a 4-5" ball at 50 yards or so in bursts. I bet I could keep it under 6MOA on semi at 100 offhand.


Usually I can keep 2-3rnd bursts on steel (2/3IPSC) at 50+ yards.

I'm pretty happy with the accuracy of the Lage uppers.